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March 19, 2000
Big City

Rediscovering the slums of Dharavi

“Every day my cousins and I would make several trips to distant Virar, then located outside Bombay, where we would buy rice for 1 rupee and 14 annas per pound. We would carry packets of it back as our personal belongings, get off at Mahim station, and walk through the khadi (swamp) to Kalyanwadi where Mamu lived. The rice would then be sold for Rs 10 per pound.”

Shamsuddin, who came to Bombay in 1948 as an 18-year-old, graduated from rice smuggling to working in a coal company and then a printing press at Rs 56 a month. Today the former hut-dweller is the proprietor of a chikki factory and has a home in a high-rise with the trappings (phone, TV etc) of middle class life.

“We have been living here since 1958,’’ says David. ‘‘At first, our house was made of chatai. Slowly we managed to improve it by putting half-brick walls and tin sheets. The municipality paved the lane in front and built a drain. One of the walls stands out as it is the only one fully made out of bricks. This is because David’s neighbour has managed to make his home pucca. But in all these years David has been unable to accumulate enough money to improve his house.”

These are just two of the many stories to emerge from Rediscovering Dharavi by Kalpana Sharma Mumbai-based journalist and a Deputy Editor at The Hindu. The book that has been on the bestseller lists ever since its release some months ago focuses attention on an area of Mumbai that, despite being at its very centre, has been on the margins of public attention.

The chief reason has been traditional middle class perceptions of slums in general and of Dharavi in particular as a hotbed of crime and filth. For many readers then, it is a matter of discovering, rather that rediscovering an area that covers 175 hectares and is home to a million people and industries ranging from leather, food preparation, recycling, pottery, garments and so on with an estimated turnover of as much as Rs 2000 a year.

Sharma traces the history of Asia’s largest slum from its origins as ‘one of the six great koliwadas of Bombay’ to the present-day sprawling conglomerate of communities - from Maharashtra, Tamil Nadu, UP, Gujarat, Kerala etc. With a communal harmony rendered fragile by the riots of 1992-3 and a challenge to traditional methods of for instance, policing. But apart from focusing on Dharavi, its people and its life, Sharma uses it as an example to discuss wider urban issues. For one, the book describes the plight of the poor with regard to housing and the futility of attempting to rehabilitate slum dwellers - seen by many as the city’s primary concern - without taking into account their needs. To quote some simple but telling instances from the book is for instance, the significance given to a loft by people who tend to live and run cottage enterprises from their home (some of the structures planned for rehabilitation had impractical, low ceilings), the preference for low storeyed structures in view of frequent water shortages and so on.

She also describes Dharavi’s role in the recent evolutionary process of the city. In 1985, Rajiv Gandhi’s much touted visit to Mumbai resulted in a grant of Rs. 100 crores. The eventual figure due to Dharavi was whittled down by competing interests but, Sharma argues, the development ran parallel to the growing importance of Dharavi thanks to its proximity to the upcoming Bandra-Kurla complex. In a significant observation, she claims that it also changed the conventional mindset of the city with a north-south axis to an east-west one. In time to come, Sharma anticipates a transformation that could turn the current disorganised medley of housing into a “typical concrete conclave of high rises.” In the circumstances this is a significant and readable slice of urban history.

 

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