It's all about making a statement. For the page three party-goers, the glitterati and chatterati of Mumbai and Delhi, the label is the thing. Most of them wouldn't be seen dead wearing kitsch labels. For them, the exclusiveness is as important as the cut, style and look, the price tag notwithstanding.And with the socialite parties gaining popularity thanks to page three of city pages, the market for designer wear is also growing. Though many designers depend on exports to boost their profit margins, a celebrity wearing their label generates a lot of interest in the label and many are cashing in on that interest by launching pret-a-porter collections that yuppies can buy.
The prices of the pret collections are almost on the same rung as an expensive brand, making it immensely purchasable for those with deep pockets, while the exclusive garments come with a hefty tag. For example, take designer Ms Shanai NC. She makes designer sarees in prices ranging between Rs 2,000 and Rs 15,000. "I create my sarees for those who want innovation. And my sarees are priced affordably." She makes sarees in crepes, georgettes, lurex georgette and lycra and embroidered blouses in the range of Rs 3,000 to Rs 6,000."
"It is a major myth that needs to be broken about designer wear, that it is always expensive," says a popular Delhi-based designer, Mr J J Valaya. "I have different brands which have different price segments. While the brand JJ Valaya has garments, which are priced from Rs 20,000 upwards to around a lakh, Studio Valaya on the other hand begins at Rs 800 and goes on to around 13,000." Former model and wife of Mr Sanjay Dutt, Ms Rhea Pillai, wears many designer labels like Shabaz Durazi and Rina Dhaka. However, she feels, some of the Indian designers are overpriced. Ms Avantika Birla, wife of an industrialist, Mr Yash Birla, says she much prefers wearing her late mother-in-law's sarees than wearing designer clothes. But when she does wear them, she prefers labels like Abu Jani-Sandeep Khosla, Rina Dhaka and Rohit Bal. "The prices of these outfits are very expensive. But I don't go overboard while buying designer outfits," she says.
An eminent theatre personality, Ms Dolly Thakore, also feels that designer clothes are expensive. But that has not stopped her from sporting them. "I love wearing plain sarees with unusual borders and I have picked some from Golden Thimble of Munira Chudasma and Shaina NC. I also picked up some beaded blouses from there. I also like designer Sangeeta Kathiawada's stuff from Melange. They are unusual."
It's this desire to wear the unusual that has made designer wear popular. "People normally go in for anything that has a brand image, a brand name, something that has snob value. Thereafter, of course it is the product that matters," says Mr Valaya. `The product that matters' is what has made designer duo Abu Jani and Sandeep Khosla famous. After their collection for Bollywood stars and their recent garments they made for the women in the Bond film The World is Not Enough, their garments have become collector's items.
A young Bollywood actress, Ms Rinke Khanna, wears only Abu Jani-Sandeep Khosla's outfits. Even her mother, Ms Dimple Kapadia, and sister, Ms Twinkle Khanna, patronise only Abu Jani-Sandeep Khosla creations. "I have been wearing only Abu-Sandeep ever since I can remember," says Ms Khanna. "Their clothes are so beautiful and one feels beautiful wearing them. I have some outfits of theirs which are 8-10 years old, which I still wear. They are timeless. I collect their garments."
Mr Khosla says their creations are an ``indulgence.'' Their clothes are sought after as they are ``classic and of good quality.'' He adds, "The genuineness comes through. We are not palming off goods to make money." But a Abu Jani-Sandeep Khosla outfit is expensive. So, even this duo is thinking of a slightly cheaper range that can reach out to more people.
"This range will begin from Rs 5,000 upwards and it is being done so that people know about quality, craftsmanship and finish," he says. The price is not as important as the other aspects of the garments in the socialite world. "Quality, styling and finish of the product dictate prices of my ensembles. My creations are finished to the ultimate degree of perfection-you feel as good as you look. My custom-made clothes are one of their kind and no two people will be found wearing the same ensemble.
Clients pay for such exclusivity where the designer takes into cognisance the entire personality of the wearer and designs accordingly," says a Mumbai-based designer, Azeem Khan.
But the importance of the label cannot be undermined. "The label is a very important factor for buyers. Other things that matter are the design and quality," says Delhi-based designer Mr Sunil Mehra. Agrees another actress, Ms Pooja Bedi. "I will not buy a garment purely for its label. The dress must flatter my body type. It should be reflective of my personality," she says. But Ms Bedi still depends on designers Ritu Kumar for her Indian outfits and Tarun Tahiliani, Shahab Durazi and Wendell Rodericks to fill up the rest of her wardrobe. "However, if I find a dress which is not a label, but it suits me, I will buy it," add Ms Bedi.
Mr Dalip Tahil, actor and TV-show host, who loves wearing Mr Muzzafar Ali's Lucknowi kurtas also likes labels like Shahab Durazi and Rohit Bal. "Their stuff is made of feel good fabrics." And that explains their high rates, he says. "Once you like an outfit, then price does not matter. One is paying a price not only for the cut, style and the fabric but also for the label and that is justified."Most designers feel, despite their famous clientele, the market for designer wear is yet to open up. "The Indian market is yet to wake up to designer wear. It will take five to six years for this to happen," says Mr Mehra.
Copyright © 2001 Indian Express Newspapers (Bombay) Ltd.