Thursday, January 25, 2001
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A fairy-tale journey 

INDER RAJ AHLUWALIA  
The wind may not have whistled through the trees, but each scene was worthy a picture frame.. I was travelling literally along the top of the Swiss Alps on what has been termed the `slowest express train in the world'. But no one complained about the speed. It seems no one ever does.

Entire blocks of idyllic pine and snow scenery flashed by as the Glacier Express turned corner after corner, on hill after hill. This oldest alpine express runs through the year, gliding through glistening mountains in summer and snowy glaciers in winter, creating a fairy-tale effect.

We had chugged out of the famous resort of St Moritz for Zermatt, a seven and a half-hour trip of some 270 km, thus earning the `slowest express train' title. Travelling from the Piz Bernina to the Matterhorn, we had passed the 2,033 m high Oberalp Pass enroute, and traversed the Bernina range and the Gotthard Massif to Monte Rosa, undertaking arguably the most scenic train journey in the world.

Along its designated route through one of the most beautiful parts of the country, the famous train had crossed 291 tunnels, and dozens of stunning massifs above green valleys. Lake, waterfalls, and glaciers greeted us with amazing regularity along the way.

The Glacier Express and the other famous Swiss mountain trains are part of the `Rhatische Bahn' railway network that had a quiet and innocuous start in 1889, but is today considered a masterpiece among mountain railway. Every day, some 350 scheduled trains traverse 116 tunnels and galleries, and cross some 485 bridges, showing thousands of tourists the visual charms of the mountain canton of Graubunden, popularly known as Switzerland's holiday corner.

The rugged, stark beauty of Central Switzerland unfolds in the sunny canton of Valais with its group glaciers, the town and lake of Lucerne, and the vibrant and colourful southern regions. Scenic wonders flash by as the trains vend their way through the mountains and forests with clockwork precision.

The Glacier Express apart, other famous trains in the `Rhatische Bahn' include the year-round Engandine Express which connects Tirol (Austria) with the Engadine, enabling one to enjoy the varied beauties of the Swiss National Park with its dark green woods and gentle valleys. Among the largest nature reserves in Europe and rich in wildlife, the park is a high point of the journey, another one being the unforgettable view of the majestic castle of Tarasp and its surrounding countryside.

Board the Bernina Express for another great experience. Also running year round, the famous train's observation carriages allow passengers to enjoy the scenery along the route. We travelled right across the beautiful district of Graubunden, some 145 km from the cantonal capital of Chur, over the Slbula Pass, cut through the Engadine, crossed the Bernina Pass and then descended into the green valleys and meadows of Tirano in the Valtellina. A journey of great contrasts in landscape, green meadows gave way to a rather barren mountain-scape that retains its cap of snow even in summer, which in turn gives way to the distinct southern character of Italian- speaking Poschiavo.

Comes July and August, and tourists get another treat in the form of an open observation carriage travelling twice daily from Chur to Arosa and along the Bernina route. This `open air to Arosa' experience generates a feeling of closeness with the mountains and valleys, besides offering spectacular views.

June through September sees the weekly Sunshine Express traversing the Alps with a ten-hour journey on a comfortable Swiss postal coach. From the Hinterrhein (Lesser Rhine) valley through the high Alpine region of Urnerland to Lake Maggiore in Ticino, and then back on a return trip along a different route that passes Oberalp and Gotten passes, it is mountain scenery at its very best.

Try the Palm Express. The name says it all. From May through October, this train takes one away from glacier landscapes to sunnier regions in Italian-speaking southern Switzerland. The trains and postal coaches link snowcapped St Moritz with southern towns like Ascona, Locarno, and Lugano, with their strong Italian flavour.

All these famous trains can be travelled with the `Swiss Pass' issued by Swiss public transport companies, and the `Graubunden Regional Transport Pass', which has a 15-day validity. The cuisine on board the trains is of good quality, and the mini-bar service reaches each passenger regularly with drinks, coffee, and assorted snacks. Route information is also available. Prior bookings are recommended.

Copyright © 2001 Indian Express Newspapers (Bombay) Ltd.

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