The passengers, who are lucky to board empty general compartment coaches, are both lucky and most unlucky at the same time. Followed in order are the ones getting in the compartment at successive stations.

Things begin to go haywire right from the moment those early passengers pay Rs 20 for a seat and a `berth' -- which is actually a wooden plank -- to a coolie, who vanishes into thin air the moment he gets his money, leaving the passengers to their fate.

Passengers boarding the compartment at every station add to the problems of these early birds, who for the rest of the journey have to be engaged in verbal battles to secure the place which they have paid for.

Then come the most heard sentences.``Tere baap ki gaadi hai kya'' (Does the train belong to your father). ``Bhai paise dekar baithe hain, puri raat safar karna hain'' (I have paid for this place and have to travel the whole night). ``Bhai bacchhe hain, thoda sarak lo.'' (We have got kids, make some space). ``Koi bhi gaadi ghar leke nahin jayenga.'' (No one is going to keep the train for himself) and more.

These usually continue for about ten minutes during which some more space is generated and a few more manage to rest a few inches of their body onto a place, apart from the feet.

With three people in a sleeper -- actually meant for one -- and another seven on the bench below -- actually meant for four -- the process of adjustment reaches its peak.

It is the middle of the night and everyone has just one wish running through their mind, ``If I could get a wink or two of sleep.'' Those who were ready to shower abuses and beat each other some minutes ago are seen offering shoulders to one and other for some rest.

The rhythmic movement of the train also plays its part in the adjustment, by filling up those empty spaces among passengers.

The ones left standing after all the ruckus over space and comfort also have made the necessary adjustments by then. While some have squatted right on the floor, the others more tired have managed to adjust themselves on the pathway, between benches and even under them. Those still not having any space can always sleep between the doors of the two toilets.

But the entire crowd in the general compartment does not comprise only of those who cannot afford to travel in the AC division. The ones who might have missed a train or did not reserve their tickets also form a part of them. And also among them are the sadhus and fakirs along with a couple of eunuchs and the little kids, who sing for a few pennies.