Intermittent shelling by Pakistan near Kargil and Drass did not deter the tourists from travelling down the Highway. Among the first ones to hit the road were a group of 15 foreigners on powerful 350 cc motorbikes. Going by the name of Ferris Wheels, the group -- comprising Americans, Australians and Canadians -- made the journey from Leh to Srinagar.

They stopped at several points in Kargil and Drass to talk to the soldiers. They gaped at the massive Indian gun positions. ``We had been waiting in Leh for some days to make this beautiful journey on the picturesque route. This is one of the best places in the world that we have seen. Pity, there is a battle on in these surroundings,'' said an Australian among them.

But more than curious tourists were the people who wanted to make the journey withthe sole purpose of meeting the brave soldiers, letting them know how much their gallantry meant to them. To let the soldiers know that they were not alone. The Sen family from Calcutta, including their little son, also came down from Leh.

They stopped at several places, spending a lot of time with the jawans. ``All of us have been talking about doing something for the soldiers and contributing in some way or the other. We thought that there was nothing better than actually coming here and talking to them directly,'' said Shabonita Sen. They wanted their four-year-old son to see how the soldiers were fighting to protect the country and its people.

The Sen family even had lunch at an army langar near Drass. They had an encouraging word for each soldier. ``You are doing a great job. We are all very proud of you,'' Sen told them. They even took pictures with army convoys and guns.

Several people had come up from Srinagar to check on their relatives living in Kargil. Travelling in state transport buses andalso in private vehicles, many had come to ensure if their relatives were safe. Rafiq Khan had come from Srinagar to look for his brother in Kargil. ``He could not flee from here along with the others. Later, I heard that his house had been shelled. The highway was closed earlier, so the first opportunity I got I have come here,'' said the anxious Rafiq. The taxi driver took Rs 15,000 from him to get him to Kargil. Instilling a sense of confidence among people were the trucks and army convoys moving along the highway with their headlights on.

For more than a month the people had only seen the army trucks, carrying supplies, moving stealthily up the highway. The NH 1-A was the main target of Pakistan shelling since it is the only road connecting Srinagar to Leh, passing through Drass, Mushkoh, Kargil and Batalik.

Pakistani intruders shelled it continuously from the crucial heights like Tiger Hills, Points 5100 and 4700 which they had occupied. The main purpose was to disrupt the Army supplies to theforward posts.

The trickle of tourists also provided some relief and diversion to the soldiers, so far used to seeing only craggy mountains and olive green uniforms. They enjoyed the attention they got from film-stars like Salman Khan and Raveena Tandon who also came down to meet them. But more than that, what touched them was the concern shown by common people.

``It is nice to see people from the real world. The fact that so many of them have come only to meet us is very heartening indeed. It means a lot to know that what we are doing is being appreciated. That we are not alone,'' said an artillery soldier at a gun position.