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THAT'S KASHMIRI-IV


Kargil's vibrant culture knew no guns

Little is known about Kargil except that it was here that the fourth war between India and Pakistan was fought. It is an irony that this peaceful land of diverse ethnicities will always revive the memories of the bitter war fought in the snowy peaks of its mountain. Imtiyaz Bakshi reflects on the cultural vibrancy of the region.

Kargil has for centuries represented a rich bowl of composite tribal culture and tradition enriched through multi-ethnicities like Balti, Ladakhi, Purki, Dardi, Zanskari and Shina, all of whom, as a rule, speak the Kargili language with perfect ease.

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The present Kargil district along with some parts of Baltistan (in Pakistan) was called Purik in ancient times. Purik Sultan of Karpokhar in Suru Valley is believed to have brought into his domain surrounding villages of Zanskar, Pashkum and Sodh and been instrumental in the development of the areas in respect of their culture, economy and military might. However, accounts of Ladakh and Baltistan as penned down by A.H. Frankey, Wazir Hashmatullah Khan and Kacho Sikander Khan Sikander reveal that Purik was divided into several little kingdoms who often waged war against each other on petty issues. No king made Kargil his capital and hence the name `Khar' and `rkil' meaning "the kingdom in between''.

With the passage of time, Kharkil came to be known as Kargil, with Pashkum being the first of its villages to be inhabited. Purik or Kargil remained under the cultural domain of Tibet and its people adopted Buddhism. But with the advent of Islam in Kargil during the 14th Century AD, Kargilis converted en masse, most of them adopting the Shia version of Islam. Influencing the Purik culture with that of Baltistan was Ali Sher Khan Anchan of Skardoo, a contemporary of Emperor Akbar who invaded several Purik kingdoms. Embodying the Purik-Balti mix is the famous Palace of Chiktan, known as Chiktan Razi Khar, the architect of which was specially invited from Baltistan.

Essentially tribal in nature, Zanskar, Drass, Kargil, Wakha, Mulbakh, Chiktan, Darchiks Garkone, Kushow and Kharboo represent the district’s cultural facets. Exploiting the cultural richness of these areas is the Jammu and Kashmir Academy of Art, Culture and Languages as also the Department of Tourism, which organise cultural programmes attracting hordes of tourists from within the country and abroad. The culturally rich Drads of Drass area are famous for their Shina and Dani Talwar dances, performed amidst recitation of Shina songs. Several cultural clubs have come up in Drass to keep the flame of their distinct cultural identity burning.

The young are especially thrilled with the composition of Balti ghazals, sung by folk singers during festivals. Many Balti poets have also come up in the area. Brokpa dance performed in traditional attire is typical of Batalik area of Kargil believed to be inhabited by descendants of Aryans.

It is said that some soldiers of Alexander's army lost their way in the Batalik and eventually settled there to give rise to an indigenous Aryan race. Another dance form Neyopa, belonging to the people of Wakha Mulbakh, is performed on village festivals and marriage occasions and, as a rule, involves participation of men only, dressed in Zebra skin costumes and a long black headgear. While the Seethot dance is performed on Losar (seven-day event) and marriage functions in Bodh Kharboo, the Fokar dance is performed at Fokar Dzong, the hermitage place of Padma Sambhava.

The dance performance are accompanied by folk songs of love and matrimony. Mendok Ltanmo, another dance form, is performed in the praise of gods to thank them for ushering in summer days, even as people of Shakar Chiktan block perform Royang Lhu, a famous cultural activity of folklore singing. Zanskar is famous for its Gompa Festival, organised in its various gompas, like Stongdy, Stakrimo, Karsha, Zunghul, Sari and Fuktal. Lama dance and display of thankas and murals are feastures of this festival. Zanskar folk dances, called "Alley Yato", are also performed.

Showcasing this rich cultural heritage Kargil Tourist Festival was organised for the first time in 1996, which besides the tourists drew artistes from Drass, Kargil, Fokar, Wakha, Mulbakh, Bodh Kharboo and Chiktan. The festival also featured Polo and archery contests, the two traditional sports activities of the district that once enjoyed royal patronage and formed part of social activities of every Kargil village.

(Expressindia welcomes suggestion and feedback from its readers on its endeavour to reconstruct the fading charm of the Valley and to present before them a slice of Kashmiri life beyond the booming guns.)

 
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