Most people think that truffles, which are as luxurious as caviar or foie gras, are mushrooms since they are both fungi and are similar in appearance and texture. However, this would be like confusing humans with monkeys.

Truffles are considered superior to mushrooms; they have a unique, earthy, gas-like smell and strong flavour. This is also due to the fact that truffles, especially white truffles, are relatively rare and difficult to cultivate. Although white truffles are also found in Croatia, they are most famously found around Alba, in the Piedmont area of Italy.

The Four Seasons Hotel recently held a White Truffle promotion week, a first for Mumbai. Executive Chef Giancarlo Di Francesco had his colleagues from the Four Seasons in Milan bring some white truffles from Alba at exorbitant costs. “We paid around Euros 2,500 for 500 grams in total and it is quite normal to pay between Euros 2,500-5,500 per kilo, depending on the size,” says the chef. Part of the reason he says they are so expensive is that they are hard to find as they grow underground symbiotically with the roots of oak, poplar and other trees. “Truffles have to be hunted using the help of truffle hogs, although modern hunters use the help of truffle dogs instead since pigs tend to eat the truffle they find.”

Chef Di Francesco suggests pairing truffles with a subtle meat like chicken or neutral flavours of parmesan/butter pasta - this is so that one gets to savour the strong flavour of the tuber rather than it being overwhelmed by a red meat or colourful pasta sauces.

The earthy and slightly mushroom smelling black truffle is the other major type of truffle, also named Périgord after the region in France. Emanuele Lattanzi, Executive Chef of Vetro at the Oberoi held a black truffle promotion last autumn and also incorporates black truffles on his menu. He suggests trying Vetro’s risotto or spaghetti with mascarpone and fresh truffle shavings, when available. The risotto particularly is promising “when we have fresh black truffles, we store them in rice which is then refrigerated, thus allowing the rice to absorb the flavour of the truffle and conversely preserving the truffle longer”, says Chef Lattanzi. He suggests one should try truffles shaved over soft boiled eggs (called Barzotte in Italy) or a salad.

Nachiket Shetye, chef/owner of East, warns that truffles are a very acquired taste. “It requires a refined palate to appreciate the earthy truffles, I don’t think it suits the Indian palate well - a lot of people don’t even eat mushrooms which are much milder”. Chef Giovanni Federico, owner of Don Giovanni, considers truffles too expensive given the price of his dishes. He recalls the first time he encountered white truffle: “I thought it smelt like feet, but I was shocked at the fantastic taste once I tried it.”

HOW TO EAT TRUFFLES
White Truffles
Available: October-December
Region: Piedmont, Italy and Istria, Croatia
Price: 2,500-5,500 Euros per kilo
Eating Suggestion: Shaved raw over subtlepastas, creamy risottos and mild meats. Also with eggs and salads.

Black or Perigord Truffles
Available: December-February
Region: South-East France, Spain, Italy
Price: 800-1,500 Euros per kilo
Eating Suggestion: Either shaved as with White Truffles, or cooked to flavour pasta sauces or risotto.