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Gnocchi as we know it

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PriyankaPereira,ShwetaTeotia

Posted: Feb 12, 2008 at 2339 hrs IST

Mezzo Mezzo
JW Marriott, Juhu

If you want gnocchi prepared, the way it is eaten in Italy, Chef Alex Bignotti of Mezzo Mezzo is the person you’re looking for. Bignotti takes pride in his traditional Italian food and even refuses to garnish the dish for us, saying, “I hate to do tricky decorative things to my food. I present the dish exactly how it is served and savoured in Italy. It’s very original, very gnocchi.” Of the four variations of gnocchi at the restaurant, the one with fresh lobster is the clear winner. Melt-in-the-mouth gnocchi with tender lobster is an excellent combination. A close second is the gnocchi in sage and brown butter. The recipe is 400 years old and is part of traditional home-style Italian cooking. What’s more, their portions are huge and you burp well.
Rating Very good
Call 6693 3220

Frangipani
The Oberoi, Nariman Point

All south Bombay food lovers head straight to Frangipani when their stomachs crave for gnocchi. Chef Joy Bhattacharya’s potato pasta with pacific scallops and red wine pesto is famous across the city. So are the other baked versions of gnocchi, including one with lots of mushrooms, so that vegetarians don't leave disappointed. Chef also tosses up an excellent gnocchi salad with ham, chicken and asparagus. “It’s a much-loved and very different salad. I use really tiny gnocchi in it because it’s a salad and I don't want people choking on huge chunks of pasta,” Bhattacharya says, adding, “Awareness about gnocchi is not high, not many people ask for it. It doesn’t make sense to include several gnocchi preparations on the menu,” he says.
Rating: Very good
Call: 6632 6310

Celini
Grand Hyatt, Santacruz

Most restaurants in Mumbai are known for ‘Indianising’ world cuisines. But Celini at the Grand Hyatt is an exception. Although the simple potato-based gnocchi is the only kind served here, it is very authentic. The choice is restricted to three — gnocchi with minced beef, with cheese and pesto sauce. The best part about eating here is the way food caters to individual tastes. There is no set gnocchi dish — If you want your gnocchi floating in sauce, that's the way it is served. If you want it dry, that's also available. Homely ambience, swift service and an open kitchen which gives you a clear view of the gnocchi preparation add to the authenticity of the restaurant.
Rating: Very good
Call: 6676 1160

Don Corleone
Intercontinental, Marine Drive

Be prepared to stress those eyes to spot the single gnocchi dish on the menu at Don Corleone. Clearly, conventional pasta preparations dominate the kitchen in this Italian restaurant. As for gnocchi, they make some in cheese-tomato sauce. On request, they even serve some in pesto and cheese sauce. The highlight of the meal is not the food but the conversation with Chef Vishwajeet who delightfully explains, the dos and don'ts of gnocchi. “It has to be cooked just right. Otherwise you have to throw away the entire batch. It has to be fresh otherwise it may harden and taste really bad,” he says. Our perfectly done gnocchi arrives dunked in too much sauce, but it stands out because the chef prefers to knead some parsley into gnocchi dough during preparation time. Although their gnocchi is hearty, the flipside for gnocchi lovers is the lack of variety.
Rating: Average
Call: 6639 9999

Café Basilico
Pali Naka, Bandra

A hushed place in the busy streets of Bandra, Basilico’s gnocchi dishes are not part of the menu, but are made to order. They specialise in making three varieties — whole wheat, roasted pumpkin and the regular flour. The whole wheat gnocchi with cheese, walnut and apple, and the roasted pumpkin with sage and butter are done to perfection, but it is for those who wish to savour the authentic flavours from Italy. The regular flour gnocchi with basil and tomato and the one with two kinds of mushrooms — white and button — are tangy and suit the Indian palate to perfection. The taste lingers and you walk out of the café satisfied.
Rating: Excellent
Call: 6703 9999

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