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Of kings and king-makers

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Kenneth Lobo

Posted: Feb 10, 2008 at 0051 hrs IST

Allow your gaze to travel up from the thick queues that form like coagulated blood outside the American Consulate and you could play spot-the-anachronism. Or shut your eyes (without wandering into the security area) and imagine a place where cannons and weapons were stored by the British on the sea front, called the Mahalakshmi Battery Site. Lincoln House (or Wankaner House as it was known then), was once the mansion of the royals of Wankaner, a tiny princely state in Central Gujarat, whose monarch, looking for an estate in Mount Abu, changed his mind and settled for Mumbai instead.

This year marks the 50th anniversary since Maharana Raj Shri Pratapsinhji — father of Member of Parliament Digvijay Sinh — traded the property to the then US consul general William Turner, to settle some estate duties levied, for an un-princely sum of Rs 1.72 million. “I had read a little about the property. My wife and I arrived in the night, but I remember looking at the sea and how beautiful it was,” says consul general Michael Owen, who has presided over affairs since August two years ago.

The transfer of property and power has been sealed but the relations between the generations of subsequent royals and consul-generals has been characterised by mutual respect and bonhomie. “When we met the members of the Maharaja’s extended family, they told me that my daughter sleeps in what used to be the Maharaja’s room. We also wondered about these heavy hooks on the ceiling. They would hang swings from up there,” he says. The hooks survive, but the swings are no longer there.

Digvijay Sinh, a man with a keen sense of history, and irony, said on the anniversary that the secretarial staff rooms and servants’ quarters now form the visa section of the consulate. “I’m quite glad that today thousands of Indians get the opportunity to feed others from where we were fed,” he said. Sinh’s exquisite essay, The Saga of Wankaner House (framed outside the doors that lead to the consul general’s residence), includes personal anecdotes and facts, and is written with a sense of loss for an irrecoverable past.

“Overlooking the seafront is a beautiful swimming pool where I swam for the first time since 1957 with my son on July 4, 1993, courtesy of consul general Charles Mast,” he writes, wistfully, adding, “It was here that I had been coached in diving by an Olympic ace, Hill Gardner.” He also remembers World War II; Bombay teeming with GIs, Aussies and British troops. “From the top floor we watched naval ships entering the Bombay harbour,” he writes.

Owen is just as aware and sensitive to the close ties. “I asked one of Sinh’s nephews, at the anniversary, about his memories of the home. He pointed to the room ahead of us and said that he was born there. In those days, families traveled with their doctors, so children were often born at home. Birth certificates weren’t issued so when they wanted a passport…” The lift still has a certificate of inspection signed by the Maharaja of Wankaner in 1942 but even more telling is a large pair of decorative wooden mojris that lie unobtrusively when you step out of it. Perhaps royalty has moved out of Wankaner House, but its imprints are all over Lincoln House.

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