There's something about asparagus. The much-loved vegetable from Eastern Europe and Asia Minor is on everybody’s plate this season; as an accompaniment, a soup, main course or even garnish. Certainly, it’s a good time to know it.

Essentially European, the vegetable is native to Germany, Spain and Italy. There’s nothing atavistic about our love for asparagus, but a popular legend says that ancient Roman emperors were so fond of it that they employed an army particularly to fetch it. Only the affluent could afford it. “It’s so simple and wonderful. If I can cook it, anyone can cook it,” says Chef Alex Bignotti. Bignotti tosses hundreds of dishes using it. Summer’s a party for him since asparagus is in season and is very fresh. “In fact, it sells so well that we just ran out of it. There are three types of asparagus; white, green and purple. The first two are available everywhere. The white ones are fibrous whereas the green ones are crisp.”

Holding up a shoot, Bignotti demonstrates, “The thicker the better. Once you get the type right, you can use it with fish, meat or vegetables. My favourite is asparagus and scrambled eggs.” For a double dose of exotica, Bignotti recommends boiling white asparagus in sugar and orange juice. Once it is boiled, it should be immersed in cold water immediately. This retains its chlorophyll content.

Chef Vanessa Burton champions the use of Australian asparagus, “It’s lovely. When it’s off-season in Europe, it is asparagus time in Australia.” A former British colony, the vegetable is abundantly used there. Pepper seeds, lemon myrtle and other local spices go well with it. It’s a hit with ladies and diet-conscious gentlemen. She says, “It is light, nutritious and healthy, a perfect food for hot months.”

For some asparagus is comfort food. Chef Fabio Mariella swears by it. “In Italian households, it is used with the same frequency as cauliflower here. I love it because you can make so many dishes with it. Asparagus Panacotta (salty) is my specialty.” Mariella warns that excessive experimentation with it may ruin a dish. He remembers eating an Indian asparagus curry. He says, “It doesn’t work. Robust spices kill the delicate flavour of asparagus. In my opinion, it suits western cuisine better.”