Anyone in the game of luxury swears by leather. Despite feeble attempts by animal rights’ activists, cow and sheep hide are still acceptable forms of skin in clothing. Leather shoes walk the runways in every fashion capital of the world, but as far as Mumbai goes, genuine hide hasn’t taken style in its stride. Instead, faux leather, satin, raw silk and others are utilised.

International brands line their shelves with beautiful leather shoes. Patent (Gucci), lizard skin (Chanel), leopard skin (Jimmy Choo) and deerskin (Miu Miu) are a rage. Most Indian brands, however, do not touch genuine leather. The few companies that do, cater to the export market. Designer Pushpita Gaur, who retails at stores across the country, says there are several reasons for this. “European countries are colder. Pure leather is more expensive; for the same amount, one can buy several pairs of shoes,” she says. “Lee Cooper and Red Tape have come up with a new range in leather but I don’t know how good they are.”

But Gaur advocates leather to all. “We must wear leather shoes; they allow us to breathe and spell comfort,” she adds.

In fact, soft leather shoes are fast becoming scarce. Shoe designer Mamata Raja remembers wearing her last pair of leather shoes years ago when she was in school. “My dad loved leather shoes and would get them from Italy. I wear a lot of chappals but they are mostly fake leather.” For her designs, Raja prefers raw silk, jute and other fabrics. “Leather is good especially with the power-dressing bit, they go well with a briefcase and a belt. But outside of it, leather really doesn’t make sense, not for us as designers or for the buyers,” she says.

Birendra Higgins of b.higgins is a men’s shoe designer who points towards an emerging trend towards casual wear. “It’s got to do with a lifestyle changes. People have developed an orientation towards more of informal shoes. Older people or office goers are the ones who buy leather. Plus, leather shoes are invariably heavy, look too formal and need maintenance,” he opines.

Not only do people wear their shoes carelessly, they are ignorant of the term shoeshine altogether. Fashion choreographer Marc