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Unravelling the sari myth

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Coomi Kapoor

Posted: Jul 08, 2009 at 1320 hrs IST

New Delhi Long after the Japanese gave up their kimonos, the Chinese their Mao boiler suits and the South Americans their boleros, we Indian woman, whether at home or abroad, clung loyally to our saris. You saw doughty sari-clad Gujarati women on the top of the Matterhorn, on a safari in deepest Africa or river rafting on the Iguaçu. When curious American tourists inquired about the practicality of the garment, Indian women would wax eloquent on the marvels of the six metres of cloth. It was cool in summer, insulating in winter, never went out of fashion, never got out of shape and doubled as nightwear, a sheet or a picnic cloth.

A tall tale retold for decades is that the sari is supremely comfortable. Examples are cited of the number of Indian women who play tennis, badminton and hockey in saris. And it is pointed out that in our villages women even go swimming in a sari. For most of us, however, the sari can start unravelling pretty fast when you exercise strenuously. And even without exercise, a woman tends to look like a dhobi bundle in a cotton sari if there is no starch in the fabric.

Another myth about the sari is that it is a modest garment since it covers you from head to foot. American actor Bob Hope once joked that the "sari was one garment which hides both the good and the bad points of the figure." This is not true. Anyone who has seen an Indian movie with the heroine drenched in the rain in a diaphanous sari will tell you differently.

Despite the constant endorsements of the sari, have you noticed that in the last two decades the sari is disappearing? Leading fashion designer Ritu Kumar, who began her career in the sixties designing saris, now focuses mostly on stitched garments like kurtas and lehengas. By the mid-seventies there were very few saris displayed on fashion show ramps.

With the coming of age of the urban worker and a more active lifestyle, women have started looking for more comfortable, practical and smarter alternatives. The first modernisation of the sari was switching from traditional handlooms and ethnic cottons to the more easy to maintain synthetic materials, with shower curtain-style floral and geometrical prints. Dayaram Printwallah of Ahmedabad became known nationally after Indira Gandhi patronised his aesthetic block printed cottons. When I visited a Dayaram store in Gujarat recently, I found that there were hardly half a dozen cotton saris in the shop. They have been replaced by wash and wear saris and cut pieces for making a kurta pajama set.

Long years ago, the norm in Bollywood was that heroines wore saris, and vamps dresses. But then Bollywood went mod and heroines started wearing outfits just as trendy and sexy as the gangsters' molls. And since Bollywood sets the trend in sartorial styles, the rest of the country followed suit. Even girls from South India now want Punjabi lehengas for their weddings. It is not just the movie stars who have altered public taste, other visible women who set the trend have also deserted the sari. Kiran Bedi, for instance, feels that pants suit her style. TV stars like Barkha Dutt, Navika Kumar and Suhasini Haidar believe in power dressing. Most domestic airlines have done away with the sari as the uniform for their airhostesses.

A random headcount on one of the capital's busy roads indicated that only two out of ten women were wearing saris and practically none in the younger age bracket. Abroad, even the elderly NRIs have adopted pants or kurta pajamas. On a recent visit to London, I did not see a single sari in the Oxford Circus area, though there were several hijabs and even a burkha or two.

Of course, the sari still remains the dress code for women in government service and politics. The former have little choice since the official code of conduct advises IAS officers to wear saris in office unless they are from the North East, when they can opt for their traditional dress. Among politicians, Sonia Gandhi favours the ethnic chic look; handloom saris in muted mud colours, a style statement she picked up from her mother-in-law. Sushma Swaraj belongs to the other school, which opts for bright colours and wash and wear convenience. Those from royal backgrounds, like Vasundhara Raje stick to pastel chintzes and georgettes. Mayawati is something of a trendsetter among major women politicians, as she opts for kurtas not saris.

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Some other possible reasons younger women don't wear saris so much. by Erika on 22 Sep 2009

I suspect younger Indian women don't want to wear saris (in part) because the are perceived as "grandma garments" or as a country cousin costume. Globalisation means that younger, upwardly mobile women are exposed to images of "trendy" women wearing Western clothing: after a while this has an unconscious influence.Add to that the undoubtedly daunting task of ironing a sari and it is not surprising that younger Indian women are choosing other styles of clothing.Some of the other replies to this article have talked about comfort: there are two issues here, comfort and freedom of movement. I would say saris score well on the comfort scale but the Nivi drape scores fairly poorly on the freedom of movement scale - I wouldn't like to try to run in it or play sport. Both comfort and freedom of movement are relative, based on the individual's experience and expectations and size and shape. My ratings and perceptions are those of a Western woman who loves traditional saris.

Sari by abhi on 29 Jul 2009

You cannot force anyone to wear anything. A woman decides what to wear and if she doesn’t wear sari no power in earth can do anything about it. No point in beating chests about culture. Culture evolves based on needs. Having said that, I feel that the sari enhances the beauty of an Indian woman by a very high degree. When my wife wears it, she looks like a goddess. When women in my office wear it, they look beautiful. In fact, I feel one of the reasons younger women don’t wear sarees is because it makes them look so adorable, and they would rather go about doing their work than attracting attention. Sari is something special for a woman. It makes her look more feminine. It is a feminine dress unlike pants and salwars which have been lifted out of men’s wardrobes. Hence its supreme charm.

sari, no double standards by Kavita on 17 Jul 2009

Mr. Mukund Kunte - your wife wore a Paithani to stand out at the Buck Palace. Good. What did YOU wear? A traditionally tied dhoti, and bare chest, I hope?! It helped the Mahatma stand out - so the nationalist thing for you to do would be to follow 'suit' and give up your suit, surely?! As for me - I'm a young woman who prefers the salwar kameez, which has the advantages of pants and yet can suit both casual and formal occasions. But that's not the point: the point is, why the burden on women to prove their cultural identity by wearing a sari? The sari is not the same as a burqa. but the BURDEN on women (reflected in many of the letters here) to wear your religion on your body is the same: be it for a sari or for a burqa! To say 'saris are not most convenient and pants/salwar/skirts may be preferred' is seen as 'trashy' and 'un-Indian' and 'anti-Hindu'. And this attitude is no different from those who say Muslim women who give up the burqa are not 'loyal' to their culture...

sari by alka on 15 Jul 2009

Sari is a beautiful garment and actually very practical and comfortable for daily routine if you select right kind.These days sari is used only as fashion statement hence they have been made too complicated for routine use. Cotton saris without starch may not look very appealing to some but try wearing them at home and from personal experience I can tell you it is very comfortable.Of course Maratha style sari is just as good as Nivi(north indian)but it is not very popular because it is too revealing and does not look good on several body shapes. When you live in western country, you have to dress like women there in pants or skirts.Otherwise you stand out and get discriminated. Just like women in pants in India used to get dirty looks,and still do ,specially in rural areas.If you wear heavily embellished saris or ones with long threads on back side of woven design, it is not the fault of sari that you have problem.And the thought that Lehngas are Arabian,is totally crazy.

Unravelling the sari myth by Vasoo Kamulkar, London on 13 Jul 2009

Dear Hrishikesh, Jhansi Ki Rani was a Maharashtrian queen who draped herself in a Maharashtrian Sadi (not sari) which was suitable for horse riding. Unlike the north Indians who just wrap their six-yard sadies around the waist, Maharashtrian women wore their nine-yard sadies in a lehenga fashion. One of the possible reasons as to why a Maharashtrian sadi uniquely differed from its North or South Indian counterpart could be its historical need. The Marhattas were always on their toes (or rather on the horse- backs) because of the scourge of the proselytising Muslim invaders. I remember the raised eyebrows in Pune, Panaji and Mumbai when my generation had started ‘indira-ing’ in the mid-fifties. Lamentably, the nine-yard sadi is fast disappearing. One could still see them in the rural parts of Maharashtra and Goa and in the Bollywood films, where, the Punjabi producers relish showing their kamwali bais always in Marathi sadies. {PartI}

Unravelling the sari myth by Vasoo Kamulkar, London on 13 Jul 2009

It is no wonder then as Coomi Kapoor says that the Indian sadi is becoming conspicuously absent not only in Oxford Street and Piccadilly but also in the Asian ghettos like Southall, Wembley and Leicester. The future generations of the Hindu males will rue the day, it bids farewell. No more ecstatic moments for them to experience the grace incarnate on the shapely forms of the Mala Sinhas and Sharmila Tagores!They will have to be content with Karinas and Preity Zintas clad in loose fitting shabbily outfitted lehenga - kurtas that are Arabic in origin or in disgraceful westernised attire, that is a trouser suit or a trouser and shirt combine. An Indian genius of transcending a stitch less piece of cloth into both ‘Adhareeya’ and ‘Uttareeya’ will be the thing of the past. Ah well, must not grumble; “An old order changeth yeilding place to new.” {Part II}

Leave the Sari alone. by Bobby on 12 Jul 2009

This is the dumbest news I have read in recent times.

Sign of Slavery??? by romesh.sharma on 10 Jul 2009

Mr Sam neither Burqa nor Sari is sign of slavery.These and many other types of dresses have historical and traditional backgrounds.These two you mention are the product of ancient systems when woman were not that active as they are today.Moreover you will find the so-called Sari is tied/wound/wraped in different manner as per situation.It depends how the person feels wearing any dress.Above all is preserving cultural and traditional values of the Land.In India many muslim and christian women love to wear Sari.Its not compulsion but as said of independent choice to represent culture.Don't you see even in western world during marriage ceremonies or other cultural festivities the women prefer to put on traditional costumes/long rocks or maxies.What one retains has love for it and so is with me and those who love their culture would appericiate what belongs to them but without undermining or criticizing others.Mr Sarcozy is more concerned to security reasons than infringing in traditional

Sari , the wonder garment by Dr. Paras Deo on 10 Jul 2009

Even the Kurtas in different styles and forms have been accepted by the world....but only as casuals. The sari is both for formal and for casual wear. That's great about sari...By the way did you know that the word 'Sari' is MASCULINE GENDER IN THE GERMAN LANGUAGE ? Just think about it... masculine gender in intimate contact with the feminine gender ;-) Wow

Soory , but the article is piece of crap by Rishikesh on 10 Jul 2009

Sari is elegant and women choose it after a certain age as it is more comfortable and because they are proud of their culture. No body today forces youngsters to wear sari.Infact the gals are more attracted to purchase their first sari then some thing like else as soon as they et matured and consider them self fit for the attire. I think the author has comfortably forgotten Rani Jhansi who went for battles using range of clothing to suit her without any social backlash. The article is biased and without much study of the cultural values. I would dare you talk and publish some thing about burqua and head scarf which many would accept are more of imposed rather then accepeted.

coomi by R. Seshadri on 10 Jul 2009

May I expect Coomi to write about 'burkha' and nun's attire in the same tone and dislike she expressed about sari. And, may I expect IE to print it

Sorry to say coomi! sari by Mahesh on 10 Jul 2009

It seems the writer has been posting some innunendo of late.Last article in this paper was similar and lost in substance.IE editors plz wake up go through the articles b4 ppl stop visiting your site.

To Joel, with sympathies... by swatkat on 10 Jul 2009

Dear Joel...to begin with its great to know we Indians dont have to be ashamed of your Indianness! thankfully you no longer are as you say! To begin with Coomi's article is trash drawing room rantings which make no sense...indian women have done incredible things from working in agricultural fields to working in high profile techno positions all wearing a sari and besides these days its a matter of choice!!! Coomi's article says NOTHING! But on ur own silly rantings, I am sorry about your lack of knowledge about other cultures..where crimes against women are as prevalent as in India...There is nothing unusual about India's crime rate...Incidently I expected a more insightful comment on patriarchal structures that sustain crimes against women, sartorial styles have nothing to do with crimes against women...I do not know which bigger better world you live in, but looks like that bigger better world is deprived of knowledge, debate, education, understanding, empathy and an open mind...sho

Sign of Slavery by Sam on 10 Jul 2009

Sari is as much a sign of slavery as burqa is. It takes away the freedom of un-restricted movement. The tragedy is that all religious as well as ethnic groups unnecessarily try to justify their traditions, some of which have no logic in the present day world. It is true that some tall and slim ladies (who know how to wear it with grace) look graceful in saree (that is true of salwar kameez as well), but 95 percent of them look outright stupid, even at the traditional Indian wedding scene.

Sarcastic about Sari by kkk on 10 Jul 2009

I felt a hidden tone of sarcasm about Indian females clinging to sari, all through this article and am totally baffled thinking about the reason. Sari, to me, brings out the feminism in the best possible way and I think women would like that

Sari Myth by Mahesh on 10 Jul 2009

Views of Joel are understandable as most likely he must be a typical goan catholic who never belonged to India and migrated to his perceived paradise but surprisingly Coomi Kapoor writing this article. Seems it has become kind of fashion to deliberately speak against popular indian traditions.

Coomi and Joel by Amit S on 10 Jul 2009

Coomi, and your point is?Joel, are you proud of (1) treatment of blacks and other races in US (just because Barack became the president, it does not change the truth of discrimination that was not even illegal until the 60's. India made discrimination illegal right at independence), (2) Teenage pregnancies, (3) Obesity, (4) Gun crime and school shootings such as that in Columbine, (5) Meth addiction, (6) Underage drinking, (7) 50 times more use of paper (read killing live trees) per capita than developing countries, (8) Rampant use of plastic, e.g. use and throw water bottles that fill the landfills, (9) Support of dictators such as Musharraf, Shah of Iran, Communism in China, (10) Opposition of democratically elected leaders such as Hamas in Palestine, Chavez in Venezuela, (11) Bombing countries for the lack of WMD on the pretext of preventing them from using WMDs (Notice how US will never attach N Korea or China or Pakistan or India), etc. etc.? Is that what you call being evolved?

Commi Kapur on Saree by Mukund Kunte on 10 Jul 2009

Be Indian, buy Indian, wear Indian is what I wouls say. we have just got back from a Garden Party in Buckingham Palace to mark 100 years of the Fleet Air Arm. My wife was the only among the 4000 or so dressed in a Paithani. She may have stood out among several dressed in formal Morning dress as the British call it and ladies in very proper Hats. But she couldn't have worn any thing else. So. So much for dressing but why the fuss at this time? That is not clear to me. But let it pass. Sent from Richmond on Thames

Sari, what did she say? by Pratik Bhatnagar on 09 Jul 2009

This article has no head or tail and just rambles. What exactly is the writer saying? You can't just slap on some pieces of sentences and phrases and call it an article! Anyway: go to where real India lives and you will see Saris galore!

indians are unwanted by joel on 09 Jul 2009

Ashutosh should know that no country grants Indians visas without thorough checks. Millionaire Indians find it difficult to get visas to the West. Whats to be proud about being Indian? UK hotel surveys reported the worst tourist were Indian. They never tip and wash clothes in the wash basin. Some even bring electric cookers and cook in the room. Excuse? They need spicy food. Indian children are never disciplined and disturb guest in the lobby running around. NO country except Nepal and Maldives gives Indians visa free entry because if the west was open to Indians there would be boat, truck, train loads flooding those countries. And the men would probably wear dhoti and women saris so they can lift it up and defecate in the streets!!!#If given a chance 500 million would leave India but they are proud to be Indian because thats the only country that will accept them and they continue to live in filth and squalor.

joel by abhi on 04 Aug 2009

Joel I can understand your pain. So much anger against Indians an only come from an Indian, because while others may curse us forget about us the next day, you have no choice. You know you are the product of the same filth and squalor, it is your identity. Probably your parents lifted their clothes and defecated in the streets and maybe you lived next to people defecating. I don’t mean this as disrespect but as points taken from your lines, which I agree with. Not 500 million, but 1.2 billion will leave this country if given an opportunity. We all know this, who doesn’t hate that filth and wants to live in peace and cleanliness? Every day you see your face in the mirror you see the same defecating Indian. So your hate is understandable.I only have issue with your line-‘I have stopped being an Indian’. My dear friend, the misfortune and tragedy of you being an Indian was stuck on your forehead the moment you were born. You may defecate in the cleanest toilets, talk in the most ‘phoren’ accents and eat no curry- you will still be the smelly, defecating Indian-yes, the ones you hate, in the eye of the westerner. If you got the visa well and good, if you lose it, you will still be waiting like a 2-dollar ‘ore in hot sun to get it.That is all you need to understand. you have to make peace with yourself.

im proud to DEnounce indian citizenship by joel on 09 Jul 2009

Ashutosh you expect all indians to follow ur so called cultural superiority. I gave up being Indian becos when ur indian u get no respect anywhere in the world. If you are ashamed of Indians who disagree with you, it shows how narrow minded you are. The world is a bigger better place. If you ever travelled abroad you would learn there are dress codes and making others uncomfortable by swimming in saris or burkhas is disallowed in most countries. In fact even Taj Hotel Mumbai does not allow persons swim without swimwear. I guess the icon of Indian hospitality is wrong but bigots and backward Ashutosh is right!! Rot in the hellhole of Indian backwardness ashutosh its what you deserve.

You miss the point, truly! by Karnam Saha on 09 Jul 2009

Don't diss the Saree or the women who nurture this grand dress. I've lived abroad now for about 15 years and more. One thing that constantly makes me proud is that Indian women, professionals and home-makers have no qualms about switching from the suit to the saree. of course, most don't wear sarees to work, but I've seen upper management women in sarees at work (on friday's) and the poise and confidence that go with that, makes me proud that among Indian's it is the women who have nurtured, protected and projected our tradition, even as they change and modernize. Let a thousand dresses bloom. Sadly, I see my chinese and other asian counterparts have long given up on their beautiful dresses. I think this speaks to India's deep cultural strengths, that it can adapt and yet not give up what its grace and beauty. And did I tell you I am a man - who wears Jeans and an occasionally Kurta. I need to learn too...

Leave sari alone by daya on 09 Jul 2009

The sari is a beautiful garment, and needs practice to be worn especially by the younger generation, hence salwar kammeez have become the natural choice. But, it is not as gracefull as a sari.You think pant suits are very comfortable. Ask womem in the west. They get tired sitting in offices in those tight pants and jackets. Sari is comfortable for sitting and walking. of course..its common sense not to wear it while swimming and all. Its a garment, easily available, with no tailoring and simple in appeal. In india,the younger generation is blindly following the western style and leaving its culture behind. Soon teenagers in india will be like korean young generation in credit card debts buying french and italian fashion clothes. People like coomi kapoor are promoters of such ideals.Please don't quote Barkha Dutt as a celebrity..presenter of promoted communist prannay roy newscaster. She is last person the be followed as an example.

Thank god by Ashutosh Jain on 09 Jul 2009

Thank god you are no longer Indian Joel!!! Its would have been a great shame for us all.

The Saree by Shantanu Mukherjee on 09 Jul 2009

What was the purpose of this article? Were you trying to make a point about its unwieldy nature (supposedly) orwere you pointing out the stupidity in making it a dress code in govt offices? Your article feels like ameal withoutsubstance, just garnish.

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