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A Season’s Bonus

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Posted: Feb 05, 2008 at 0245 hrs IST

The sudden spell of chill might have caught us unawares, but we are not really complaining. As we pull out the monkey caps and wrap ourselves in pashminas, most of us are actually smiling in anticipation of all the good things that come with an extended winter— a new lease of life to the irresistible gur and puffed rice innovation, Joynagorer moa, or the prospect of biting into crispy parathas with seasonal stuffings.

“There is something about the winter air that makes Kolkatans all eager to experiment gastronomically,” claims Pardeep Rozario of KK’s Fusion. So experiments like roast turkey in makhani sauce jostles for table space with the traditional alu gobi curry at the South Kolkata eatery, as the mercury plummets unbelievable lows.

At the popular Bengali eatery Kewpie’s Kitchen, freshly fried karaishutir kochuri, served with tangy alur dum, continues to be a crowdpuller. “Karaishutir kochuri and alur dum are perennial favourites. Winter in Kolkata is incomplete without them,” says Chanchal Bhattacharya of Kewpie’s Kitchen.

However, at Bhojohori Manna, another popular Bengali restaurant, seasonal vegetables like shaag, peas and carrots are the main draw. “We get a variety of fresh vegetables in winter, which is why it makes sense to experiment with them.With this extended lease of winter, there is no reason why we shouldnt indulge,” says Siddhartha Shankar Bose of Bhojohori Manna.

Meanwhile, popular cafés of the city, like Coffee Pai Café, are trying to make hay while the mercury dips. Their extensive spread of stuffed parathas is the season’s bestseller for the chain. “There is nothing like a bite of crispy paratha dipped in spicy pickle in winters. And since the mercury continues to dip even in February, our customers can now afford to indulge in rich and buttery delights,” claims Naveen Pai, proprietor, Coffee Pai Café. On offer are favourites like peas paratha, mushroom paratha and the ever-popular alu parathas. “The paratha-coffee combination is our highest seller in winters,” adds Pai.

Kolkata foodies are also celebrating the extended stay of the heavenly winter delicacy, notun gur. “People can’t seem to have enough of notun gur this season. By February the gur generally starts to disappear from the market as the mercury starts to soar. But this year it continues to rule roost,” claims S Nag of the popular North Kolkata eatery Bhim Nag.

The carrot and ghee concoction, gajar ka halwa, is also an unexpected but welcome overstayer. “We are selling gajar ka halwa by kilos this winter. By this time last year we had stopped making the sweet. This year, however, people come up and ask especially for it,” sums up a spokesperson of the popular North Indian sweetshop, Rallis.

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