The superbly luxurious Aman property has finally opened in place of the erstwhile Lodhi Hotel, off Lodhi Road. While the hotel chain has built a formidable reputation of understated elegance and of attaching a God-like-importance to the privacy and solitude of their guests, they have reluctantly thrown open the doors of their restaurants, Lodhi and Aman to the public. So, never mind if you can’t afford a weekend at their suites that come with private plunge pools and butler service, at least you can indulge in Catalan-style seafood at Lodhi or screen through Indian regional cuisine and a smart Naoki counter that serves French-inspired Japanese food at Aman restaurant, once in a while.

Everything about the resort is quietly sophisticated. Lodhi, spread over three levels, overlooks a shimmering infinity pool. The service is unobtrusive and the ambience is serene, despite a mirror paneled staircase, leather flooring and a silver dusted ceiling. Food arrives in stately Reynaud and Limoges crockery and the mocktails are stylishly presented in hand blown glassware from Riedel. While the wine cellar has just begun stocking up bubbly reds and whites, interesting wine pairings will soon be on offer. When we plodded to the restaurant for a weekday luncheon, just two more tables were occupied. “We’re confident that Aman junkies who’ve traveled to our properties in Rajasthan will enjoy time in our Delhi hotel,” says Antony Treston, General Manager, Aman, Delhi.

Must-try

From the Tapas counter, some of the best light-bites of our meal were Potato Bravas (Rs 200) that serves a bowlful of crispy fried potato nestled in a bed of tangy tomato puree, topped with aioli. The Orange and Ham Salad (Rs 300) offers a summery blend of orange, olives, slivers of ham and crushed lettuce. We paired the nibbles with chilled Sangrina (Rs 300), a refreshing take on Spain’s classic drink, it comes topped with bits of apple.

The Catalan menu is extensive. We begin with Roasted vegetables (Rs 800). The platter serves us a picture-perfect dish with strips of several wood fired vegetables that are colour synchronized on a sparkling white plate. Seared Foie Gras with Pickled Cherries (Rs 1700) is easily one of the most expensive foie gras dishes in Delhi. Beetroot with Manchego cream (Rs 700) comes with richly textured slices of the fruit and is unusually delectable. Castalan Fish Stew with spinach and potatoes (Rs 2800) is best for family meals. A large skillet rolls out a steaming broth with a variety of seafood.

Most offerings at Lodhi are refreshingly different and if you’re feeling very adventurous, try the Roast Suckling Pig (Rs 1800) with sweet potato puree and roasted pear. Among the desserts, our favourite was Chocolate Cannelon (Rs 500), served with fresh yoghurt foam and bits of pomegranate.