The sketch of a gentleman- dressed in a dhoti and shawl and holding a pipe, placed at the entrance of Brown Sahib, the latest restaurant to open at MGF Mall in Saket, is symbolic of a bygone era. In keeping with the theme of recreating dishes from 60s and 70s Kolkata, the kitchen offers an interesting mix of some classic Bengali recipes and some Anglo Indian favourites that most of us have grown up on. So you can sample pieces of matashutir kachoris in a bowl of aromatic aloo dum while a golden pot of cheese soufflé, duck l'orange and buttered breads wait their turn at your table.

"The restaurant borrows from my life and family in Calcutta. There are traditional items from Bengali homes as well as the Anglo-Indian food which Calcuttans like us have grown up relishing at country clubs and Park Street," says the 30-something owner Rajyasree Sen. Beige is the colour at Brown Sahib but parrot prints on the chiks and on their Winchester style sofas make for a becoming, cheery look. There are Jamini Roy prints on the wall and a limited edition collection of MF Hussain prints from his Calcutta series.

Our meal begins with a shot of aap shorbot while our plates are filled with Mocchar Chops (Rs 245) and Stuffed crumbed crabs (Rs 375). The croquettes made with banana flower and the stuffed crabs were fresh but the accompanying mustard dip was ordinary. Before the next course we sampled the palate cleansing Shukto (Rs 245) to prepare us for a mildly spiced helping of Maacher paturi (Rs 450), an excellent version of steamed fish in banana leaf parcels. Its worthwhile keeping some space for dessert here: the Kamala Kheer (Rs 125), thick sweet milk and rice flavoured with tangerines is difficult to find on Delhi menus and so is Bhapa doi (Rs 125). For the last decade or so, this sort of menu has been uncool with very few trendy restaurants attempting old world cuisine, preferring to cater to the international palate. Sen’s bold move might just work provided Delhi rediscovers a taste for chicken strogonoff .