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Oui, now garnish with ginger

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Debesh Banerjee

Posted: Mar 05, 2008 at 2302 hrs IST

If a diehard French gourmet were to watch David Tilly by the stove, he would be reduced to muttering non, monsieur, non. For the 26-year-old chef de cuisine at The Orient Express at the Taj Palace Hotel would nonchalantly add ginger garnish or a dash of soy to pan-fried duck liver — culinary sacrilege by Gallic standards. “French cooking uses garlic, not ginger. But soy and garlic are widely used in Asian cuisine and I am experimenting with oriental spices and herbs,” says Tilly.

Still, the man from Brittany would not turn coq au vin to butter chicken by adding chilli or turmeric powder. But a lover of Thai cuisine, he would reach out for basil leaves and tangy lemon grass and ginger. “While the cuisine of Spain, Italy and other regions of Europe has changed, the French food is still the same. So I decided to innovate a little,” he says. Tilly’s love for Asian cuisine began sometime ago at Morton’s Club in London which served continental as well as Asian cuisine. “My chef once threw a challenge at me — to make scallops with carrots.” And a baffled Tilly added fried cumin seeds and baby carrots — instead of béchamel sauce — to scallops. Fusion hasn’t left him since.

If you would like something similar, then drop in at The Orient Express in April and ask for bel paese cheese with Sichuan pepper or roasted black cod with tomatoes in ginger dressing. It is definitely not French, but it sure sounds palate-friendly.

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