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Sniff sniff, vintage no more

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Shalini Rai Narayan

Posted: Jan 03, 2009 at 0405 hrs IST

With wine drinking becoming commonplace, connoisseurs lament the falling off the pedestal of an elite tradition

Wine is the new beer. Everybody is having wine these days, from the connoisseur to the urban professional. It's not just fashionable but now commonplace to talk about wine as casually as you would about cold coffee in the past. But along with the democratisation of the brew comes a growing resentment about it's diminishing worth.

Denizens of Pune who've had more than just a fleeting acquaintance with wine reminisce how wine drinking was once more than just sitting down at the dinner table and taking a few sips of the aspirational drink. "Having wine, especially vintage, used to be a ceremony in itself. Nowadays, it's up-to-the-minute for people to talk about red and white vines and how reds go with red meat and whites with white meat. Most of them have never heard of Bordeaux, Chardonnay or Chateau Margaux wines," says Ritika Ramtri Kumar, pageant coach and soft skills trainer.

What gives wine puritans fodder for their critique of wannabe vintners is that most people are not aware of wine etiquette, which includes using the right glasses and serving the drink at the right temperature. So, while some wines taste best at room temperature, a majority of hosts serve them chilled. "To help you enjoy your wines better, the serving temperature must be right. About 8-12 degrees for whites, 12-15 degrees for light reds like a Pinot Noir or a Beaujolais, 15-18 degrees for heartier reds and 18-20 degrees for mature, full-bodied reds," says Sourish Bhattacharya, executive director, National Wine Academy. "Most people chill all wines, whereas, some wines are best had when they are at room temperature. The attitude to drinking is also very casual. I've been to wine and cheese parties in the city where wine bottles are passed around and guests swig straight from them, whereas it's best had in glasses," adds Kumar.

The type of glasses used for having wine also goes a long way in enhancing drinking pleasure. The proper way to drink, suggest experts, is to grasp it by the stem and drink, so that the temperature of the wine is not affected. Also, holding the glass by the bowl leaves fingerprints, which can distort the visual appearance of the wine when examining its clarity and colour. There are also those who prefer the homemade variety. "Wine has several medicinal properties and tastes best when made at home. We make gooseberry wine at home during Christmas," says homemaker and avid cook Ramani George. "Not many are aware that dry red wine helps you burn fat. Commercial wine does taste good but the palate is limited to red and white wines. And it's not as healthy as purported, as all wines have alcohol content," she adds. The alcohol content is what's got many worried. As Rani Soparkar, homemaker puts it, "It's distressing to see youngsters, especially those who aren't earning a living on their own, splurging on wine, just because it's 'in'."

However, the one fact that cannot be denied is how great wine tastes and after all, enjoying the drink is a matter of taste, not puritanism. As Kumar says, "All said and done, the pleasure of the wine lies in having it. All the talk of pairing wine with food and doing it the right way is fine, but let's not get bogged down by it and just go ahead and savour the drink." Well, we couldn't agree more. Cheers to that!

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