“Many years ago, women preferred to buy fabric from the local market at Rani ka hajira and get it stitched. Over the years, street vendors in Law Garden became very popular because they sold readymade chaniya cholis in both traditional and modern patterns. Now, there is a clear shift towards organised sale of Navratri garments,” says Shyamly Shah, who owns a designer showroom in Vastrapur.

It is not just designer stores which are selling Navratri wear, even stores like Reliance hypermarket have an exclusive section for chaniya cholis.

Not only do they have the same designs in varying sizes, but also offer free Navratri jewellery on the purchase of apparel.

A major share of the business of chaniya cholis in the organised sector comes from non-resident Gujaratis (NRGs) who descend in thousands during the Diwali season.

“NRGs are a major clientele and provide the greater chunk of business this season,” says Karuna Patel, a designer store employee.

“They would rather give the bustle and bargaining a miss and shop in the comfortable environs of a showroom. Not only are they assured of the exclusivity of designs but also good customer service and personal attention.”

Though the price of chaniya cholis sold in showrooms is a little steep, nobody’s complaining. Whereas retail outlets offer the festive garment in all ranges, starting from Rs 500 and going up to Rs 5,000, designer Navratri wear can cost as much as Rs 20,000.

While the Kutchi handwork has almost disappeared from the streets, it can be found aplenty in designer showrooms. In fact, simulated Kutchi designs in a riot of colours to resemble the original rabaris’ craft are selling very well this season. They do not cost as much as the handwork fabric and even have a better finish.

“After a season of sequins and tiki-work almost replacing the traditional Kutchi designs, they have are in vogue again this year,” says Deepa Mistry, a retailer.