Difficult times call for different measures. If recession is keeping buyers from burrowing deep into their pockets, it does not mean designers will go merely for the tried and the tested. When Delhi-based designer Nitin Bal Chauhan (above) was invited for the Japan Fashion Week, held in Tokyo last month, he decided not to play it safe. He, instead, designed clothes that took off from real-life issues. “My spring-summer ’09 collection is called ‘Conditions Apply I’, and is directly linked to the darker side of urban existence,” says the 29-year-old, who had three catwalk shows on January 14, and a stall at the four-day event.

The clothes are inspired by urban malaise like student suicides, high stress levels of professionals, divorce. Chauhan has delved into techniques like screen and digital printing, batik, tie and dye and weaving to elaborate on the theme in items like fitted and gathered dresses, jackets, skirts, blouses, bags, scarves, hats and ties. The palette is terse — black, white and darker shades dominate. “I exhibited about 35 garments, and also had pieces from my autumn-winter collection ’08. The response was really good. Considering that people are now following designers’ progress over a couple of seasons before investing in them, the interest they showed in my collection was quite good. The accessories in particular were a big hit,” says the quirky designer, who has had a great season so far with an appearance at the Tranoi Fair and an invitation to the London Fashion Week.