Gone are the days when knits were synonymous with sweaters and other woollen wear. The changing fashion scenario, which emphasises on "comfort with style", has given a big push to the knitwear industry. From cotton tops and trendy T-shirts to lycra swim wear and stretchy dresses -- garments made of knitted fabrics are fast catching on. And catering to the needs of this rapidly growing industry are the knitwear designers.The National Institute of Fashion Technology (NIFT), New Delhi, offers a 2-year post graduate diploma programme in Knit Wear Design and Technology (KDT). The course was launched in 1994 to provide students with the opportunity to study and practice the inter-related aspects of knitwear and knitted product design. The aim of the course is to produce designers who have creativity as well as a sound knowledge of materials and processes.
To begin with, a student should have a good hand at sketching, as illustration is the foundation of any kind of design. At times beautiful designs originatefrom mere doodlings. So the habit of making rough designs in the sketch books may always come in handy for designers. According to Niket Mishra, a fashion designer, "Students require the ability to produce design ideas with clarity and speed. It is necessary to be able to sketch the figure with a few simple lines."
The KDT students study the fundamentals of knitting, textile science, pattern making and draping, garment construction, hand-knit design and knitted fabric design. The fundamentals of knitting covers various types of knits and knitting machines. Textile science deals with the finishing, processing and printing of knitted fabrics. Pattern making and draping involves drafting, which at times is a complex procedure. Garment construction covers the area of sewing techniques and garment finishing.
The area of marketing is covered by subjects like survey of apparel design and apparel marketing and merchandising. The course also trains the students in art-related subjects like fashion art and worldart appreciation. Presentation techniques, elements of design and illustration are some of the other subjects covered in the programme. Students who are interested in setting up exports could learn about trade documentation and quota policy, as well.
The highlight of the course is computer aided design and manufacture, for which a Shima Sieki computerised machine has been acquired by NIFT. Students learn about the advanced CAD and CAM processes, which enable them to understand product development in a much better way. There is a built-in 6-week industry internship in the programme. This way, "Students get professional design experience which helps them get job placements," says Kapil Jain, a fashion coordinator with an export house.
The KDT programme is open to graduates who have secured at least 50 per cent marks in their graduation (45 per cent for SC/ST). However, admission to the course is strictly on merit as assessed at the entrance examination.
The KDT course consists of 4 semesters, eachsemester being of 6 months duration. The course fee for each semester is Rs 6,000.
Besides the diploma course, NIFT also conducts continuing education programmes (certificate courses) in the field of knitwear. Such courses are generally pursued by those who have done fashion designing or textile designing. However, the continuing education programmes are in great demand as diploma holders and other trainees achieve a level of competence needed to handle practical assignments in the industry. These courses are all short term, the duration ranging from 1 to 3 months. Garment Manufacturing with Cotton Knits is a 12-week course open for graduates. Then there is a 6-week course in Knitted Apparels: Forecasting and Product Development. The fees for these courses range from Rs 3,000 to Rs 6,000.
Knitwear designers can pick up a job in the knitwear industry as fashion coordinators, pattern makers, assistant designers, designers and production managers. Fashion coordinators who are also known as fashionmerchandisers, look after the marketing and distribution of the garment. They also provide feedback on market trends and ensure that consignments reach stores on time.
Fashion coordinators are paid quite well as their job demands time and responsibility. According to Jyoti Paul, who works in a garment manufacturing unit, "Big firms pay as much as Rs 20,000 to result oriented candidates." The job of assistant designers is to do research work in fabrics and trends. They should have thorough knowledge of colour, silhouette and fabric. The designer creates ideas for new styles and are often helped by assistant designers. They get remunerative openings in export houses, domestic manufacturing units and boutiques. Some designers prefer to work as freelancers, as this enables them to work for more than one organisation. Pattern makers work in close association with designers and give form to their ideas.
Knitwear designers with a knack for management have the option to work as production managers. Suchprofessionals have to estimate production costs, schedule the flow of work, hire and train workers, and manage all other activities related to production. A challenging option for designers is to work in the field of fabric research. "It is job focussing on technology and development of new fabrics," says Charu, a knitwear designer. She adds, "Recycling of scrap yarns and creating fabric blends is very exciting."
The growing domestic market for knit-wears is providing unexplored opportunities for entrepreneurs. So the message is -- go ahead and tap it.
Copyright © 1998 Indian Express Newspapers (Bombay) Ltd.
