The fort can trace its origins back to 1464. Spread over 25 acres, it is concealed within a horseshoe formation of the Aravalli Ranges, therefore invisible from the main road. The last ruler here was Rajinder Singh Chauhan, scion of Prithviraj Chauhan. He ruled here until India's independence in 1947, and then shifted into a dilapidated structure known as Vijay Bagh, clearly visible from the fort ramparts. His two queens still reside here; one around 78 years old, and another other 49!

According to old, faithful retainers, Neemrana quickly began falling into disarray, with the villagers pilfering most of the antiques. The Raja tried his best to get the government to help but to no avail; eventually, when Aman Math and his partner Francis Wacziarg bought the fort, nothing remained butthe husk.

It was the vision of these two men--to restore old ruins, create peaceful havens, breathe new life into tired stones--that has brought Neemrana to its present, adorable state. Keenly interested in the past, Math and Wacziarg, believe in preserving the quaint beauty that the old places offer and yet aim to bring in all modern trappings. "When I see a ruined building, my first instinct is to restore it for reuse," says Aman.

The two friends are always on the lookout for discarded items from dilapidated havelis in Rajasthan, Gujarat, and also in South India, that will fit in among other old pieces of the buildings they help `rebuild'.Romantic? yes. Illusions? Hardly. After all, their first pet project, the Neemrana Fort Palace two hours away from Delhi on the Jaipur highway, is today a member of the elite small Luxury Hotels of the world--the only property in India thus far to earn this classification.

For the two men, it has quite literally been a labor of love, to try and restore Neemrana toits old grandeur, albeit with all modern trappings. The fact that nothing had been demolished can hardly be stressed enough. Bathrooms have been constructed to fit in with the curve of the wall; if there were jharokas along side, then so be it. Likewise, bathtubs have been installed only when measurements would permit, without adjusting the original sizes. The flooring remains the same; the cobbled path leading into the interior of the fort with some shingles broken, is exactly as it was centuries ago. Whatever cannot be obtained from similar havelis in Rajasthan or Gujarat is cleverly crafted to mesh in with the rest.

According to Math, a lot of effort has gone into the structure; roots have either been built or restored, the entire wiring and drainage system had to be installed without damaging the exteriors as he says, the restoration has been for the purpose of re-use.

When this reporter visited Neemrana, the fort boasted of 38 well appointed rooms with more under construction,eventually the tally will be 52, which does not include the romantic Sheesh Mahal--a fully furnished tent for two. The most spectacular suites by far are Hara Mahal and Chandra Mahal; the latter was formerly the kacheri or Court of Justice. The Sheesh Mahal is also a suite, with its intricate jharokas and secret passage ways intact. The suites have been constructed beautifully keeping the family requirements in mind.

What strikes a visitor is that the there are no stereo systems, no television, to break the quaint settings and in a way retaining the old world charm. And yet, next to the reception area is a fully equipped conference hall to accommodate 40 and complete with videos, projectors and other gadgets!

With quiet and seclusion being Neemrana's USP, and the proximity to Delhi being a major advantage, the fort is privy to many conference getaways. The entire fort can be hired for a 10 per cent discount, with both French and local cuisine available on request. Air France, ICICI,Erikeson, and even the Defence and other embassies, routinely hold their brainstorming sessions and parties here. With the swimming pool expected to be in operation this season, Neemrana seems like the perfect hideaway.

Fast facts: Access: Roughly 122 km from Delhi, rates begin from Rs 1,500 up to Rs 5,000 (All suites mentioned in the article are Rs 5,000) Red tea/breakfast/evening tea are inclusive. 25 per cent off on non-AC rooms between April-Sep. Food: Local as well as French cuisine available on request. Rs 200 pp for lunch; Rs 250 pp for dinner.

But Neemrana is not the only heritage site that Math and Wacziarg set sights on. Kesroli Hill Port is their latest offering to the discerning customer, to get away from the pressures and fast pace of life today. Situated atop the Hornstone Brecic rocks, it is roughly two-and-a-half hours away from Delhi on the Alwar route. The 630 year old Kesroli was basically a checkpost which was gifted by the Raja of Alwar to the present owner's ancestors. Today,the fort is owned by Wing Commander (retd) Mangal Singh, older son-in-law of the now deceased Ranawat Thakur Bhawani Singh, who has given Kesroli to Math and Wacziarg on a 40 year lease.

When the two men took charge, nothing was left here except for the main gate. The fort itself was practically a pile of rubble. Now, there are 21 rooms, simply furnished and pleasing to the eye. The Falcon's Palace and The Cuckoo's Palace were originally stables. Hindola Mahal, or Palace of the Swing, has a beautiful antique jhoola, and a private sit-out that commands a splendid view as far as the eye can see.

Of course, this property is much, much smaller than Neemrana. Nevertheless, while the latter has its own charm, Kesroli is for those who say they want to get away from the madding crowd, and truly mean it!

Unlike Neemrana, none of the rooms are airconditioned at Kesroli yet, but it is really not that intolerable (this reporter visited in the month of April). The main complaint, as one gathered from thevisitor's book, was that there should be more flexibility in meal timings. One tends to agree with that, after eating dinner on the ramparts under a blanket of stars, or waking up to the excited chatter of birds.

This season, they hope to have the swimming pool at Neemrana operational, will it then be the turn of Kesroli for something similar? Kesroli gets booked for weekend retreats and brainstorming sessions by companies like Eriksson, Fem India, ICICI and so on.

Fast facts: Access--140-150 km on the Delhi-Alwar route

Accommodation single/double/suites available

Rates beginning Rs 1,500 up to Rs 3,000, 25 per cent discount on air cooled rooms between April-September. The entire fort can be chartered on a 10 per cent discount. Conference facilities available on prior notice with special discounts in April, July, August and September. Food, bed tea, breakfast, and evening tea are inclusive in the rates. Lunch is at Rs 150 pp and dinner at Rs 200 pp (They request for advance notice in casemeals are required).