With western countries looking for low-cost processing centres, India, which currently occupies the eighth position in global wool consumption, has the capacity to be the world leader in wool textile trade. The need of the hour, therefore, is for an integrated approach to wool marketing, monitoring of consumer preferences and development of right products, stated SK Chaudhuri, IWS area director for India and Middle East.

The domestic wool industry, in this context, demanded reduction in import duty for raw wool which is at present 25 per cent. This duty was high enough to compete with other countries in global export market for finished products. China's import duty for raw wool as low as three per cent.

Chaudhuri said that in order to develop this approach, IWShas been successfully organising annual Wool Meet since last five years in India. The recent Wool Meet has afforded domestic industry an opportunity and zeal to move in this direction by developing overseas contacts, updating entire wool pipeline about current consumer trends, increasing awareness about `Woolmark' amongst consumers and disciplining buying selling system of products.

He said that the popularity of `Woolmark' is as high as 93 per cent in metros. About 79 per cent of consumers are ready to pay more for `Woolmark' labelled garments.

Domestic industry has to address itself to some problems which hindered its growth. It should improve its image as quality producers of wool textile, if it has to become a significant exporter of wool products. It should also improve its record in terms of delivery and reliability.

Chaudhuri said that another problem is the lack of trained manpower and designers in the country. The industry cannot afford to depend heavily upon foreign designers. The institutesoffering courses in textile technology in the country should include wool technology in their syllabus. In this context, agreement has been reached between Indian Woollen Mills Federation and the Western Australian provincial government for training for Indian textile institute teachers on wool processing in Western Australia.

He cautioned that the opening up of international trade with the new millenium will pose challenges to be addressed on war-footing. To meet these challenges, India wool textile industry should focus on quality oriented manufacturing environment with continuous flow of product innovation.

IWS is offering assistance to achieve this by deploying experts who are constantly working on new projects not only to improve the performance of wool products but also to repositioning wool as lighter, trans-seasonal and more relaxed clothing. Among the new products under development are machine washable woolen garments and light weight trans-seasonal fabrics.

`Wool Plus Lycra' fabric has alreadybeen launched for the domestic market.This product is the outcome of a cooperative endeavour by IWS, industry partners and DuPont. IWS in cooperation with the National Institute of Fashion Technology (NIFT) has introduced shawls with new designs for exports.

The chairman of Wool Strategy Group of Western Australia, Phillip Gardiner has proposed linkages between Indian industry and Australian wool growers on basis of both risk and profit sharing basis. Referring to a sharp increase in purchase by Indian industry of greasy and scoured wool from Australia, he said that this demonstrated a significant strategic shift in relationship between growers and scourers of Western Australia and Indian industry. This has been favourably looked upon by Australian wool growers.