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Wednesday, September 30, 1998

Designers have it good at Rs 40,000 per month 

Protiti Sen  
The art of printing fabric is thousands of years old. Remains of the printed fabric found in India and China have been identified as belonging to the period around 500 BC. However, it was not until the 16th century that textile printing attained general acceptance and even then it did not achieve the distinction that it reached in the 18th century, when Christopher Phillippe Oberkampf opened his textile printing factory at Jouy, France, and began to produce the famous `Toile's de Jouy'.

Since then the textile printing industry has never looked back. Printing techniques are being improved, research is being carried out to increase fastness of dyes and designers are experimenting with unusual colour schemes and styles, to meet the demands of the domestic and the export market. Printing has today become a major production segment of textile industry. The size and scope of this field has opened a world of career opportunities for creative, skilled and qualified professionals.

Textile printing is an essentialpart of textile designing. It is also known as localised dyeing, as during the printing operations only certain portions of the fabric are dyed with the desired colour and according to the desired pattern.

Fascination for colours coupled with a creative imagination is what it needs to begin with. With professional training from any of the numerous institutes, a student acquires knowledge about each aspect of textile printing, like dyeing, motif placement, style of printing, design idea, printing methods and printing ingredients and fabric properties.

According to Premlata Mishra, who has done a course in textile designing from Women's Technical Institute, New Delhi, ``Those who want to join the textile printing line should have knowledge of materials and processes involved in fabric production. No single stage of production is entirely responsible for the appearance and performance of a fabric.''

Each stage of processing has its variables so that in the complete sequence of manufacture the number ofpossible combinations is enormous. This knowledge is essential if one wants to come out with new concepts and innovative designs.

Though creativity is essential in the line, one should keep on referring to books on traditional textiles. ``There are so many motifs and patterns, such a wide variety of colour combinations and so many design variations, that the books on traditional textiles become a constant source of inspiration for designers,'' says Preeti Sharma, owner of a textile-printing house in Ghaziabad.

Technical and practical knowledge is very essential. One should know the chemical composition of different kinds of dyes. The knowledge of how dyeing and printing machines work is also important. Those who want to specialise in textile printing should have a proper understanding of the construction steps involved in the making of blocks for block printing and screens for screen printing. ``Without this knowledge, they would not be able to come out with practical and commercially viable designs,''says Sharma.

Though there are many institutes and polytechnics which offer courses in textile designing, very few conduct special courses in textile printing. However, as printing is an inseparable part of textile designing, those interested in printing can also opt for a textile designing courses. This way they can even widen their job prospects, as they will have knowledge of other aspects of textile designing, besides printing.

One can study the course at the government-run National Institute of Fashion Technology (NIFT), New Delhi, a premier institute in the country. NIFT offers a two year post-graduate design-cum-technology in textile design and development. Graduates, who have secured at least 50 per cent marks in their graduation (45 per cent for SC/ST), can apply. Admission to this course is strictly on merit as assessed at the entrance examinations, which is conducted in three steps -- written test, situation test and group discussion/personal interview.

The government-run National Institute ofDesign (NID) at Ahmedabad conducts an undergraduate course in textile designing of four years duration. The institute accepts applications from candidates scoring at least 45 per cent marks in class 12th board examinations. However, admission is strictly on merit as assessed at the entrance examinations.

At NID, the first year is a foundation year common to all the students. This year introduces the students to the basic skills and conceptual abilities necessary to become a designer. At the end of this year, students are given their streams for specialisation based on their preference and aptitude, and their performance during the year.

The NID also conducts an advanced entry programme of two years' duration in textile design. The course is open to graduates in fine arts, applied arts, home science (with textile and clothing) and in any textile related programmes. Diploma holders in these fields with at least two years of relevant experience are also eligible. The candidates are selected through a commonentrance examination of design.

Many private fashion institutes like Pearl Fashion Academy, International Institute of Fashion Technology, IEC School of Art and Fashion and several other polytechnics and government run technical training institutes offer certificate, diploma and advanced diploma courses in textile designing. Some of these institutes also offer short-term courses in textile printing.

A leading NGO, All India Women's Conference (AIWC), New Delhi, started a textile printing unit in 1975, to mark the International Year of Women. The centre is equipped with the latest training facilities in hand block-printing.

Copyright © 1998 Indian Express Newspapers (Bombay) Ltd.


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