It's all you wanted to know about dressing up, but didn't know whom to ask. Gautam Singhania has come to the rescue of gentlemen who would welcome a few tips on formal wear comprising business suits and accessories. It was his idea to prepare a brochure for Raymond's franchisees and select clients, which would discuss the fabrics, colours and fashion accessories that would prevail in the new millennium. Quite a help, isn't it, considering so few designers think for men?We thought it a good idea to share some of these valuable tips. After all, you might be extremely confident of your business sense, but wouldn't want to go wrong with your dress code, right? These suggestions will even help you make the right purchase.
Invest in a few high quality separates. A double-breasted blue blazer over a pinpoint oxford white button-down shirt is always a great look.
Want attention? Wear a white shirt. White next to the face is very flattering. Another way to make a statement is to keep most of your wardrobesubtle and express yourself with conventional ties and interesting socks.
Remember, the trouser length should at least touch the top of your shoes, or ideally with a slight break. Length is a personal preference, but longer is better. The belt should be colour coordinated with the shoes--a black belt should not be worn with brown shoes. Button-down collared shirts do not belong with double-breasted suits. Also, a polo neck, mock-neck or turtle-neck knit shirt worn with a suit or sport coat should be tucked into the trouser.
Regular heavy T-shirts should be immaculately clean and wrinkle-free, and can be worn under linen and gaberdine blazers.
Men should take care not to allow more than two patterns in the visual field while dressing. This means that if you have a solid suit, you can have a patterned tie and shirt. If you have a patterned suit, you should have either a solid shirt or a solid tie. If both your suit and shirt are patterned or pin-striped, you should wear a solid tie. This rule can bebroken by wearing patterns that are of differing proportions. If you are wearing a grey pin-stripe, your shirt can also be striped as long as the width of the stripes varies. You can also get away with a patterned tie, shirt and suit if all three are in the same colour family. The safest colours are the neutral ones: black, navy, grey, dark green and khaki. Neutral colours don't make a statement for or against you, that's why they work. Besides, for most men, muted and dark colours work better than bright or multi-coloured fabrics. It is advisable to save the bright colour for an accent or a splash, like in a tie.
Any dark colours send a message of competence and power; light colours can make you seem more approachable and friendly. For example, you might choose dark colours if you are concerned about not being taken seriously. But if people think you come on too hard or are aggressive, light colours might take the edge off. Dark colours in a relatively monochromatic mix also tend to make you look slimmer.White has a brightening effect, and makes a good backdrop for a tie with colour.
Talking about ties, tying them the right way can often have you in a knot. However, if you know the basics these tips will enhance the look:When buying a tie, make sure it stays flat against your body. Otherwise its shape only gets worse. Be sure that the dimple in the knot is centred. If it isn't then the whole look appears lopsided. The knot should be tight enough to reach the top of the shirt. Start the day with a crisp look, even in casual attire. A common mistake people make is tying the knot too big. Try a Half Windsor knot instead. Be sure the end of the tie falls to the middle of your belt buckle. And please don't yank the tie off at the end of the day! The best way to avoid damage is to simply reverse the steps you took while tying it.
An important mantra. And all your caution could fail if you forgot this one: Never out-dress the boss! Now your next business meeting could introduce a new you to your peers.
Copyright © 1999 Indian Express Newspapers (Bombay) Ltd.