Food Heritage, as the restaurant has been called, opened quietly last fortnight and has the backing of Saxena's mother, Sashi, and her hugely popular eatery, Sampooran Rasoi, at Dilli Haat. Though Sheemita says the venture has been her government-school-principal-mother's brainchild, the restaurant has her stamp all over. The decor has been done entirely by her and a friend from art school and all the managerial decisions are taken by her.

But the food has her mother's touch. For, despite the expert hand of chef Irfan Qureshi, some of the dishes are cooked at home by mom and sent over to the restaurant every day, like the sil batta pounded Shammi Kababs (Rs 170) and Mutton Nihari (Rs 190). And, of course, the Mewa Bhatti (Rs 60), a Madhya Pradesh version of the gulab jamun that is made by a special cook from her mother's home town. The Saxenas have tried to make their menu different. But, Sheemita says, they could not totally do away with some of the popular dishes likes the ubiquitous Palak Paneer or Butter Chicken.

The light appetisers have traditional shorbas, of which the Chicken Shorba flavoured with coriander and pepper is good. For the starters, the Khumb Chatpate (Rs 125) is recommended, in which the mushrooms have been stuffed with a tangy flavoured paneer, other than the Shammi Kababs.

The main course includes the Nihari, Patiala Shahi Ghosht (Rs 190) and other usual dishes like Kadhai Murgh (Rs 190), Rogan Josh (Rs 190), Murgh Tawa Masala (Rs 190).

Food Heritage is worth a visit, but faces stiff competition from a clutch of restaurants in Hauz Khas like Bistro, Baujee ka Dhaba and the Park Baluchi, all of which serve Indian food. But Sheemita, who claims to have tasted the food in all her competitors' restaurants, is confident that no one can provide that special home touch that only Food Heritage offers.

--Vidya Deshpande