What do Elizabeth Taylor, Jaques Chirac, Robert Redford, Naomi Campbell, Princess Caroline and Mitterand have in common? They have all wined and dined at Edouard Carlier's famous Paris restaurant Antonie Beauvilliers. And he is back in Delhi or the third time at La Rochelle, The Oberoi to present his famed cuisine up to December 12 for dinner.Exotically called, Semaine Gastromonique, Carlier is recreating the magic of his Monmarte restaurant. This portly gent, called Doudou by his friends, also has a two-star rating by Guide Michelin and has gained the reputation of running the best salon a manger in Paris. With such credentials under his belt, it is not surprising then that, Carlier is very particular about the food he serves and expects you to be as fussy over it as he is.
Every course is presented with elan and has to be had with a particular wine. For the first half of the meal, Carlier had a white wine, Le Chardonnay of 97 vintage. And the exotic peep into the haute cuisine of Paris began with a green lentil soup. The lentil used was pretty much like our kala malka dal, but Carlier would have none of it. His green lentils were from the mountainous Puy region of France and are grown only in this area and are very expensive.
This was followed by a salad of goose liver terrine and foie gras. The goose liver terrine was light and melted in the mouth. It was the next appetiser that I was afraid of. It was Paris' most exotic and famed dish of escargots (snails) cooked in burgundy wine and served with green, star and flavoured butter. Snails were something that I had never eaten before, but surprisingly I managed to send them down the hatchet without a hiccup.
The main course began with a change in wine, the red Beaujolais replaced the Chardonnay. Beaujolais Nouveau is a wine that is the wine of the year and is meant to be opened only after the third Saturday of November. Carlier, used his intuition and added some Indian flavours to his Parisian fare, and presented the main course to suit the spicy Indian palate. The fillet of Red Mullet had an aubergine paste accompanying it with chilli oil to give it that Indian touch. And the next course of guinea fowl was flavoured with Indian spices.
Carlier says he does use Indian spices at his Paris restaurant too sometimes, but the gourmet who visit his restaurant do not like too much of fusion; they would rather savour his rich French flavours. The grand finale of his meal was the dessert that was a yummy hazelnut praline with white and dark chocolate mousse.
Carlier's showmanship gives him the edge and he can give you a taste of Parisian socialite eating for Rs 2,000 plus taxes for two, excluding the wines.
Copyright © 1999 Indian Express Newspapers (Bombay) Ltd.