The advertising for Revlon's new makeup line comes at a critical juncture for the financially troubled cosmetics company controlled by New York financier Mr Ronald Perelman. Revlon has suffered eight consecutive quarters of losses and is coping with a mountain of debt. The company's stock fell 48 per cent during the past 10 months; as of 4 pm in New York Stock Exchange composite trading on Thursday, Revlon rose 35 cents to $6.07 a share.

The campaign, designed by Kirshenbaum Bond & Partners, is the opening shot in Revlon's bid to create a more modern look. The television ads feature a lithe woman, sitting in a yoga-like position with her mussed-up hair pulled back in a ponytail. Hip, soulful music plays as a female voiceover says, "Capture the light. Capture the glow." Print ads, set to launch in the March issues of such magazines as Vogue and Elle, feature the model's face and outstretched arm against a stark white backdrop. Past Revlon advertising typically included a well-known model and busier text. By comparison, the new model, Ruza, has a modest profile.

"We're trying to make sure we're relevant to women and relating to them the way they want to be talked to," says Ms Cheryl Vitali, executive vice- president and general manager of the Revlon Brand Equity Group.

For Kirshenbaum Bond, creators of the much-admired advertising for Target stores, the project is an audition of sorts. Revlon is in the midst of hiring an agency for its $100 million corporate-advertising account, considered a marquee assignment on Madison Avenue.

The four finalists for the Revlon account are Kirshenbaum Bond, Interpublic Group's Deutsch; Omnicom Group's TBWA Chiat/Day, and MarchFirst's McKinney & Silver. Until now, Revlon exclusively used an in-house agency, Tarlow Advertising, led by veteran Mr Dick Tarlow, who was close to Mr Perelman. Mr Tarlow recently left Revlon as the company looked outside for advertising help amid complaints that its ads had grown stale. Mr Perelman isn't on the seven-person board reviewing agency pitches. Revlon plans to hire an agency by the end of the quarter.

The campaign for the new product line, called Skinlights, breaks on Monday on NBC's "Today" show. Revlon is spending about $20 million to support its biggest launch since ColorStay lipstick in 1995. Revlon, as part of its restructuring efforts, slashed advertising last year: For example, it spent about $625,000 on one 15-second commercial during the telecast of the Academy Awards in 2000, compared with $6 million on five spots in 1999, according to Competitive Media Reporting. But the company has vowed to turn on the spending faucets this year.

The Skinlights products represent a departure from Revlon's trademark bold, sassy colors and could attract a more upscale customer. The collection promises to brighten a woman's complexion by reflecting light in a blend that includes actual crystals, unlike foundation or more traditional makeup that covers up. Estee Lauder's Prescriptives brand has already enjoyed success with the look.

But Skinlights is a tricky product to market because it is unlike traditional makeup in the effect it creates. It requires getting women to use makeup differently, rather than simply getting them to try a different shade of lipstick.

Revlon, because it is sold in large stores and drugstores, doesn't have dedicated salespeople to explain its products' features. There was also some early concern that stores would hesitate to stock new Revlon products because the company plans to be stingier about taking back merchandise. In the past, stores could return unsold makeup for a full refund. Still, retailers including Kmart and Duane Reade, the New York drugstore chain, say they are stocking the full Skinlights line.

The Wall Street Journal