A fortnight ago, I was compiling the wine list for a major forthcoming commercial project, which promises to be perhaps the largest cellar collection under one roof in India. In the process of evaluating bottlings of various countries, the New Zealand trade office at their high commission in New Delhi was requested to provide information on their wine industry. Very promptly was received a sort of annual wine directory covering over a hundred wineries and vineyards. What struck me as being very impressive was the methodical, official approach to the matter. The directory categorised, regionwise and vineyardwise, the best bottlings with approximate prices per bottle. A historic and commercial brief of the winery, the people behind the wine-making and information for prospective visitors was also listed.
An enormous amount of work had been done to commission such a book and it revealed the weightage given to the economic importance of this agro-led industry in New Zealand. The individual wineries, small and large, listed in the book had one thing in common, passion for excellence in their field. New Zealand, tucked away in the Pacific, overshadowed by its more high profile and larger neighbour, Australia, does not find too much awareness in the mind of the average Indian. Even as a professional in the hospitality industry, one looked at New Zealand primarily for its lamb quality and lately for the wonderful kiwi fruit, now found in abundance with local fruit importers. One well presented book and a couple of tastings changed my impression.
The first wineries in New Zealand were established at the turn of the century and the trade flourished mainly on local demand. It was perhaps only 15-20 years ago that the best of New Zealand's wines were offered on the highly competitive international market, growing in stature, demand and quality since then. In fact, during wine tastings, for complication of the wine list, their Sauvignon Blanc wines were positively outstanding and outdid similar priced wines from other contending wine manufacturing nations. Their Chardonnays too stood their ground and were of above average quality, if not class leaders internationally. It was quite revealing to nose such remarkable wines, each whiff extolling the wine's individual characteristics. Their Hawkesbridge Willowbank Vineyard 1999 and Hunters Oak aged 1998, both from the Marlborough region, outpointed all other contenders, whilst the Clifford Bay 1998, again from Marlborough, and Montana Ormond Estate 1996 from the Gisborne region stood their ground versusChardonnays from other countries. Sauvignon Blanc and Chardonnay are grape varieties crushed for white wines throughout the world. Chardonnay is particularly famous for being the grape used for champagne making in France.
The unfortunate side is that New Zealand wine is almost impossible to come by in India and unavailable with local bonded warehouses. Sir Richard Hadlee, in his cricket encounters with India, had wisely gauged our batting strength. It would be a pity if his countrymen in the wine trade decide to give India a preconceived walkover in underestimating the potential of our burgeoning wine market.
New Zealand views its vineyards as part of its strong agro economy, as do most other wine producing nations. Our economic planners may like to look at this and assess whether the same module is feasible in India, encouraging viniculture for its end produce of wine, fostering wine makers, wineries, domestic wine consumption and hopefully the country's increased presence in the international wine trade.
An advisory to readers and lovers of white wine would be to pick up New Zealand Sauvignon Blancs and Chardonnays during jaunts abroad. They are reasonably priced and represent excellent value for money. During wine tastings, more wine is spitted out after nosing and swirling it in the mouth and that was the sad side of my New Zealand wine tasting as the few irreplaceable bottles I had would rather have been enjoyed with a fine meal than swirled, almost gargled and spitted out-Cheers!
Copyright © 2001 Indian Express Newspapers (Bombay) Ltd.