London, February 27: The hype about swinging London has died down, somewhat. The strong pound, may have something to do with this, for although London still draws people they have to be able to accept that most currencies convert rather badly against it. There is, however, one aspect of the swinging city that those in the know inform us is still swinging fashion, haute couture, or what one person described as ``a thing so awful you have to get rid of it every six months''. At London Fashion Week they were showing the stuff that people, who can afford such things, will be wearing in September.This autumn you can be with it in a ``constructivist dress in woven stainless steel'' by Thomas Holtkotter, for an unnamed price and look like a symbol of the commanding heights. Last year's transparent or translucent frocks are still serviceable although for a mere £8,000 you can have your own translucent Gaultier dress with what one fashion writer described as a ``stunning trompe l'oeil of a woman's body'' pickedout in sequins on both its front and back, i.e. the naked woman look without being naked.
For just £3,000, get a cashmere, cotton wool and tissue paper knit ``snowflake'' dress by Julien Mcdonald, which is the haute couture take on a crocheted shawl. Or from last year's great new talent Tristan Webber a black wool Melton and glaced leather ``Oboe Resonance'' coat also at an unnamed price, which needs a lot of room to stand in. Does a constructivist dress in stainless steel make a designer rich?
Apparently not. There are only a couple of hundred women around the world who actually consume couture. The rest just gawk. Hats, frocks, shoes, i.e. clothes rather than costumes, are the bottomline. But to establish a name and to have buyers queuing up to buy said frocks, shoes and hats a designer has to have a talent for self-promotion. Bizzarrness on the cat walk works really well, especially with a complement of naked or near naked women, animal head, insects, flies, and other creepy crawlies. If the fliesdon't draw the stockists to a designer's door they certainly bring the fashion writers, and among them the kingmaker in this business. Once anointed by a kingmaker, only an unlucky designer does not have a queue of buyers who hope that he or she will actually produce some reasonably wearable coats, hats, dresses that they can retail at moderate prices.
Nothing breeds success in the fashion industry as success. And success in the world of fashion may begin with being noticed in London, but it ends with being employed in Paris. London's place in the couture hot seat has been guaranteed by the successful co-option of English designers into French fashion houses. John Galliano at Dior, Alexander McQueen at Givenchy and Stella McCartney (daughter of Paul) at Chloe. Products of London's Central St Martin's school of design, they have helped christen London as the city of talent. And apparently for those who claim to understand these things there is plenty of talent apart from the hype. This year's potentialgreats, also from St Martins, are Taishu Nobukuni, now based in Osaka with a penchant for childlike topless models, and Andrew Symonds.
There is big money in this business. And the extent of easy sponsorship of London Fashion Week is a testimony to its success. Where once all but the hardened fashion-led businesses would have hesitated to put money into it, three years since London became couture's hottest venue, its pouring in.
The main sponsor of the fashion week is Vidal Sassoon, the hair billionaire, apart from him there are British retail chains including Marks and Spencers, Burtons, Next, Selfridges and Debenhams, who have brought high fashion to the high street; and clothing manufacturers Coats Viyella, Courtaulds Textiles and Dewhirst.
Like any sporting contest there are the ``official'' sponsors relevant to the game: champagne and make up. And in a business where nothing starts on time, the ultimate indicator of the spin-offs being associated with it, an official time keeper -- Timex.
Copyright © 1998 Indian Express Newspapers (Bombay) Ltd.
