Because of its geographic location and to a great extent isolation, the food habits of Kashmir remain quite distinct from other hotter climes in the plains. ``Meat dishes are more popular. Every meal is sure to include one or more varieties of meat. And it is mutton we prefer not chicken,'' Saloni Dar enlightens us.

``Kashmir's Roganjosh, Yakhni, Kamargah and Gushtabas are quite well-known for their finger-licking tastes. And the mutton is usually lamb not goat-meat like in the lowlands. Vegetables which grow in summer are sun-dried and preserved for the winter months.''

Kashmiris also have a wide variety of baked breads. Local bakeries churn out a hard bun topped with sesame seeds which is dipped into hot tea and forms the breakfast and tea-time snack for most. Kashmiri tea is also different.

There is the Kahwa which is flavoured with masalas and the namkeen chai which as its name suggests has salt added to it instead of sugar and is further enriched with butter. This is supposed to provide extra warmth during the long, cold winters. Traditional Kashmiris prefer to eat sitting on the floor on warm woollen carpets.

A white sheet is spread out in front for the dishes. On special festive occasions guests may eat from the same plate - large trays actually - to signify special bonding. One does not even have to get up to wash one's hands. The host arranges for a basin and jug of water and a towel to be brought to each guest at his seat.