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Saturday, February 6, 1999

Artline

Alka Pande  
A glowing lantern made of a watermelon, red lilies made of beetroot, and a decorative vase made from a melon - the first time I saw such an assortment of objects art made from vegetables, I was spellbound. I had seen tham at a wedding feast in Goa a few years ago, and ever since I have been fascinated by the art of vegetable carving.

It is one of the popularly-held beliefs that this art has its roots in China. From China the art moved to Portugal, on the Holland, Italy, France and Western Europe. In India it is in Goa that intricate arrangements made from vegetable carvings are seen on festive and celebratory occasions.

The humble `lauki' and `kaddu,' the all-invading potato, the less popular lotus sterns, the favourite okra, one and all can be used in vegetable arrangements. The vegetable arrangements are perfect substitutes for flower arrangements, particularly in the hot summer months in India when a vast variety of flowers are not available.

The thought of vegetable carving appears to be simple, but even a trained specialized Cordon Blue chef can be at a loss. It is a craft and an art at the same time. Grace Gonsalves who was in Chandigarh recently picked up the craft from her mother. Ever since she was a little child she used to watch her mother Alicia making elaborate vegetable arrangements. Whilst many of her aunts were great cooks, it was her mother who always emerged a winner at family celebrations. Alicia was always in demand at family functions. For it was the touch of her deft fingers which converted an ordinary meal into a celebration. Using left over vegetables she would come up with intricate arrangements; some made of cabbage leaves, peas and pomegranate seeds to make delicate flowers. Alicia's arrangements would always stand apart. And the adulation which Alicia got from friends and family prompted Grace to take on vegetable carving as a serious hobby.

Grace today is a busy woman in Goa. She has her hands more than full making simple and elaborate arrangements on order.

Grace's favourites are the green melons which she says have a great deal of potential. "The size of the fruit and the three colours, the red fruit, the white covering and the green skin have endless possibilities. Each and every portion of the fruit can be used. The same is true of the green and yellow pumpkin. I am also very fond of the beetroot. It's blood red colour is ideal for making different varieties of flowers." And it is in the design of the vegetable and fruit that the creativity of the individual can be felt. For the possibilites are endless.

The tools required for the craft are so very limited. A sharp knife is an essential tool; a set of knives is ideal. The fruit knife to give texture to the vegetable, the sharp knife to give the fine lines, and a small blunt edged butter knife to give the finishing touches. The ideal combination, of course, is a judicious blend of both fruits of vegetables. What could be better than to use raw vegetables to add colour and aesthetics to the dining table and turn it into a king's feast !

Copyright © 1999 Indian Express Newspapers (Bombay) Ltd.


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