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Friday, November 19, 1999

The ramparts reverberate...

EXPRESS NEWS SERVICE  
The impressive facade of Shaniwarwada, which held centrestage during the Peshwa regime is all set to be the centre of attraction now, not politically this time, but aesthetically, as well as from the tourist point of view.

Thanks to the magnanimity of the National Culture Fund, which has released Rs.68 lakh for the upkeep of the Shaniwarwada, the eye-catching landmark that has become synonymous with Pune's socio-cultural history, promises to retain its grandeur.

Over the last few years, the Archeological Survey of India (ASI) and the Pune Municipal Corporation have been making remarkable efforts in preserving this heritage monument, like banning high rise structures near it and enhancing its tourist-value through the ambitious light and sound show. Now, the central fund is an additional bonanza.

The huge Dilli Darwaza, the manicured lawns and the famous nagarkhana is there for all to see, between 8 a.m. and 5 p.m. when this monument is open to public. The entrance fee is two rupees and half-baked guides endeavour to tell a tale of a past interspersed with tragedy and heartburns. Here, we take you on a trip to that nostalgic lane which has been obscured by the sands of time. Only, this 6.25 acre expanse surrounded by stone walls and nine towers (buruj) remain a mute witness to the story of four generation of Peshwas that lived, not in so much harmony.

The towering Dilli Darwaza is your first encounter with the wada. Studded with spiky iron nails, it indeed looks awesome. The direction of this door was a matter of great debate. The door faces away from the Pune city and is looking towards North, that is Delhi, which implied the Peshwai ambitions of having an eye on the Delhi empire. Hence, the name Dilli Darwaza. Also, it is said that when Bajirao started building the walls, Chhatrapati Shahu Maharaj seemed suspicious about his ambitions and had suggested that Bajirao build walls made of large heart and not just mud - chhati che, mati che nahi, he had said.

Shaniwarwada, originally built by Bajirao Peshwa I in the early 1730s gradually grew to an expansive structure, by the end of the 18the century. Can you believe that during that time, it was a seven-storeyed structure. The teakwood and brick structures comprised various mahals like the Ganesh Mahal, Badami Mahal, Asmani Mahal and so on. The Hazari karanja, the fountain with a 1,000 nozzles was the star attraction of this wada. Captain Moore who visited the court in 1791 describes it as ``very magnificent. Hundred dancers can dance here at a time. In one corner is a marble Ganpati statue and the palace is flanked by a fountain and a flower garden.''

Major fires which raged through the wada in 1812 and 1817 destroyed a large part of its beautiful architectural splendour. The murder of Narayanrao Peshwa, was by far, the most gory event that occurred on these premises.

After the death of Madhavrao Peshwa, his younger brother Narayanrao became the Peshwa under the guardianship of his uncle, Raghunathrao, who himself was very ambitious of become the Peshwa. It is said that he sent a note to one of his trusted soldiers to catch Narayanrao and bring him. In Marathi it reads as: Narayanrao la dhara. But his scheming wife, Anandibai, changed it to: Narayanrao la maara which means, kill Narayanrao. When Narayanrao saw the soldiers coming threateningly after him, he is said to have run, in panic, towards Badami Mahal, Raghnathrao's palace, and fell at his feet crying, Kaka, mala vachva (Uncle, save me). But no one could save him that day and his body was cut in so many pieces that it had to be collected in a vessel before being taken away through the small side door. Subsequently, in 1795, Sawai Madhavrao Peshwa, Narayanrao's 21-year-old son, jumped from the second floor of the Ganesh Mahal and fell into the fountain below. The sharp nozzle of the fountain is said to have hurt histhigh, and he died after three days of intense pain.

Shaniwarwada witnessed the death sentence given fearlessly to Raghunathrao, by Ramshastri Prabhune and also the gory scene of Vithoji Holkar being trampled under an elephant, outside the Dilli Darwaza as per instructions of Bajirao Peshwa II. For some time, the Shaniwarwada was used as a godown by the Britishers. It has always remained a place of interest for the public. Now, with the relevant authorities having taken so much interest, the citadel of Peshwas is sure to remain intact.

Copyright © 1999 Indian Express Newspapers (Bombay) Ltd.


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