Fashion with a Purpose

Fashion with a Purpose

If the whole country is doing its bit for Gujarat, Ritu Kumar doesn’t want to be left behind. The doyenne of Indian fashion dug deep into her entire collection, spread over the last 30 years, for a show of some of her chosen ones at Retrospective: A tribute to the textile heritage of India at National Gallery of Modern Art at(NGMA) on Monday. The show included Kumar’s casual, Indo-western, bridal and period costumes.

Hosted by the Ladies’ Wing of the Indian Merchants Chamber(IMC), the show saw a dozen models catwalk all the four floors of the chic NGMA gallery. Looking resplendent in her cotton kurta pyjama, Kumar said, “Around this time last year, I was at Kutch, working with traditional textile craftsmen of the area. My fear is that the tragedy might have uprooted many of the dastakars. This show is to rehabilitate those craftspersons and also to celebrate their art.” Some of the designs showcased were inspired by the craft of Kutch.

Everything in the show evoked feelings of nostalgia and nationalism. If each round was accompanied by an old Hindi film song, the designs spoke of Kumar’s commitment to India’s traditional textile crafts. Never mind the the red caps, stilettos and the very Indian kurta pyjama with a dupatta in place, while the song playing in the background was Mera Joota Hai Japani, Yeh patloon Englistani. And never mind that no formal ramp was created for the occasion. The audience, mostly women, enjoyed every moment as models walked past the audience, wearing costumes with works of bandhini, phulkari, kantha, chikankari and zardozi. Many among the audience tapped their feet when the romantic number Ankho Hi Ankhon Mein Ishara Ho Gaya played. When the bridal wear round came, the DJ played Shaam Dhale Khidki Tale Tum Siti Bajana Chhod Do.

Moving with elan, the models showcased saris with intricate works of embroidery.Starting with hand block printers and just two tables in a village near Calcutta 30 years ago, Kumar went on to design some of the most exquisite garments and accessories in cotton, silk and leather. Kumar’s forte is traditional Indian clothes. Working with dastakars and other traditional craftsmen, she has taken the simple sari to international fashion arena.

She has designed wardrobes (swim-wear, evening wear, traditional Indian wear, casual wear and formal evening gowns) of Miss Indias participating in international beauty pageants. Miss Universe’2000 Lara Dutta won the award for the most outstanding evening gown designed by Kumar. Author of a well-received book Costumes and Textiles of Royal India, she is considered a pioneer in Indian fashion. Her Indo-Western fusion wear has trappings of block prints, embroidery and craft inputs.

The retrospective at NGMA evoked good response from the crowd which predictably comprised mostly women. When director of NGMA Dr Saryu Doshi appealed to the audience to “contribute generously” to the Dastakar Kutch Crafts Relief Fund, the women were quick to open their wallets. Many filled in forms, committing their help to the quake victims.